Brammo Owners Forum
General => Victory Empulse => Topic started by: shayan on May 06, 2019, 03:16:28 AM
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I very recently completed 10k miles and observed some leak around the plastic cover around the transmission/motor area on the left hand side of the bike. i took it to the local dealer in San Jose to get it checked and they mentioned that the leak was not much, but it was probably due to a failed gasket or housing inside the transmission. And unfortunately they said that they could not work on any repairs on the bike.
My best guess is that the gaskets in the transmission needs replacement and i may need to find someone to do this job. Any thoughts would help!
-Shayan
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Is it oil or coolant?
oil would be dark.
coolant would be transparent.
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Hopefully it's an oil leak and not coolant. A slight oil leak is easier to live with than a coolant leak in the motor. The dealer you took it to specifically said "transmission" so hopefully that's where the leak is. When you say the "leak around the plastic cover" is it coming from the round cover at the end of the motor or is it further back near the chain sprocket? The motor itself has no oil in it to leak, only coolant. Behind the motor there are two places that could leak transmission oil--the output shaft seal where the front sprocket is attached and the gear shift shaft just below it. In addition, there could be oil coming from the transmission breather but it would be noticeable as it would get over a lot of parts. You could also be leaking brake fluid from the clutch slave cylinder which is mounted directly in front of the forward chain sprocket. If it is leaking enough to leave an oil spot on the floor while sitting then what you want to do is clean the entire transmission with a degreaser, dry it off and park the bike until you see a drop of oil or coolant. Then follow a line straight up from the floor to the area on the bike where the leak is coming from. Because the bike sits on a side stand and leans to the left, the leak could be on the right side and just flowing to the left before it drips off. So look for any traces of oil that might have run under the motor/transmission. If it isn't coolant (and it's a slow leak) I would just keep an eye on it. If it is coolant it's possible the leak is at the coolant hose connections to the motor. However, there is a thread about coolant leaks it the motor itself which would be the worst situation to have.
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Is it oil or coolant?
oil would be dark.
coolant would be transparent.
The dealer did confirm that there is no coolant leak from the motor and that it is indeed an oil leak.
I got some of this liquid on my hand after i ran my finger over the part where the oil was leaking and it was black. The same liquid after service (transmission oil change) was not black or transparent anymore. I could only observe it to be a high viscous fluid (hence assuming its not coolant).
Hopefully it's an oil leak and not coolant. A slight oil leak is easier to live with than a coolant leak in the motor. The dealer you took it to specifically said "transmission" so hopefully that's where the leak is. When you say the "leak around the plastic cover" is it coming from the round cover at the end of the motor or is it further back near the chain sprocket? The motor itself has no oil in it to leak, only coolant. Behind the motor there are two places that could leak transmission oil--the output shaft seal where the front sprocket is attached and the gear shift shaft just below it. In addition, there could be oil coming from the transmission breather but it would be noticeable as it would get over a lot of parts. You could also be leaking brake fluid from the clutch slave cylinder which is mounted directly in front of the forward chain sprocket. If it is leaking enough to leave an oil spot on the floor while sitting then what you want to do is clean the entire transmission with a degreaser, dry it off and park the bike until you see a drop of oil or coolant. Then follow a line straight up from the floor to the area on the bike where the leak is coming from. Because the bike sits on a side stand and leans to the left, the leak could be on the right side and just flowing to the left before it drips off. So look for any traces of oil that might have run under the motor/transmission. If it isn't coolant (and it's a slow leak) I would just keep an eye on it. If it is coolant it's possible the leak is at the coolant hose connections to the motor. However, there is a thread about coolant leaks it the motor itself which would be the worst situation to have.
Thank you for the detailed notes @siai47
I have attached a couple of pictures and as you can (hopefully, because the pics are not of great quality) see, the leak is not much. I did not see any drips of oil in my parking spot over the weekend. What i cannot clearly see is where the oil leak is originating from. It is getting out of the gap in the black cover though. So looking at the pictures and reading through your response, it does not seem like a brake fluid leak?
-Shayan
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If the oil comes out from the left side where the motor cooling mantel meets the gearbox, then the o-ring on the motor on the inside of the gearbox is leaking.
That's an easy fix but jou will need to take the motor out of the gearbox and thus disconnect the cabling on the motor. and remove the cooling ports (easier than trying to take the hoses of).
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I agree that it might be the motor/transmission O-ring. He should be able to see oil between the motor and the transmission. The O-ring itself isn't a problem to buy however to get to it you not only have to take the motor and transmission assembly out of the motorcycle but you need to remove the clutch cover on the transmission. That will most likely destroy the paper gasket that (like most everything else) is unobtainable and will have to be hand made. Unless the bolts hold the motor to the transmission are loose, I would just monitor and live with this problem.
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Thank you for the responses guys. For now i'll keep an eye on it until i see actual drops of oil coming out and getting collected on the floor. It seemed like partzilla.com accepted orders for victory oem parts and now it seems like all the stuff is gone from there :-\
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I don't know for the Victory Empulse TT but for the Brammo Empulse R you do not need to take the cover of the transmission.
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Dang that sucks I'm beginning to see the added complexity of the gearbox and cooling system will be the death of these bikes. Could you just clean it up really well and put some RTV sealant on it and maybe retorque whatever is holding the gasket on there?
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it's not a leaking gasket but an o-ring.
aparently they wear/dry out.
the gasket is on the rightside for the gearbox and clutch plates.
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Dang that sucks I'm beginning to see the added complexity of the gearbox and cooling system will be the death of these bikes. Could you just clean it up really well and put some RTV sealant on it and maybe retorque whatever is holding the gasket on there?
Problem with gasket or not, thats a good temporary fix. I'll give it a shot!
it's not a leaking gasket but an o-ring.
aparently they wear/dry out.
the gasket is on the rightside for the gearbox and clutch plates.
Is it possible that i can get this checked without destroying the paper gasket?
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make a photo of the righthandside of the transmission (rearbrake side) so I can compare it with my disassambled empulse.
should be 8 bolts that hold the motor to the gearbox
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make a photo of the righthandside of the transmission (rearbrake side) so I can compare it with my disassambled empulse.
should be 8 bolts that hold the motor to the gearbox
Pic attached. Let me know if the pic is clear enough. Thanks!
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I meant from the side :o
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I meant from the side :o
Here you go...
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And another..
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How hard is it to remove the motor from the bike? Time to buy a Zero motor and install =P
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How hard is it to remove the motor from the bike? Time to buy a Zero motor and install =P
I guess the difficulties will be with changing the software with the new motor. I wonder if i need to change software if i just get rid of the gearbox and chain the wheel to a fixed gear with the same motor. Would get rid of a significant amount of weight i think :D
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Sorry, missed the new foto's.
looks the same as on the brammo empulse R.
just remove the 8 outer bolt and you can tap the motor out with no problem.
then you can disconnect the motor cables on the other side.
Do you have a service manual?
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How hard is it to remove the motor from the bike? Time to buy a Zero motor and install =P
just as easy or hard as any other motor with a gearbox :P
fitting the zero 75-7 will be a lot harder :o
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Sorry, missed the new foto's.
looks the same as on the brammo empulse R.
just remove the 8 outer bolt and you can tap the motor out with no problem.
then you can disconnect the motor cables on the other side.
Do you have a service manual?
Cool. Hopefully it won’t be too difficult. I might have to get this done in a garage. So I will need to pass on the instructions to whoever will be working on this. And yes I do have a service manual. Does that have more instructions?
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No, it's just that simple.
!Disconnect the big safety connector in front of the battery/ under the stearinghead before you do anything else on the electrical system!
just a side note, the system still works without the motor installed but it thinks it is charging.
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Happy to report that that the leak got fixed. The local Polaris/Indian dealership in San Jose (Spirit Motorcycles) previously had refused to take in my bike for repairs, but recently had a change in staff and the new staff were kind enough to take in my bike for a repair and fix the transmission o-ring. I believe the o-ring and the seal were removed and redone (since the parts for replacement are not available) and put back into the casing. The cast was then allowed to cure for about 48 hours and all was good to go.
So maybe if someone faces a similar issue in the future, this would be a good solution.
-Shayan
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That's good to hear. I did talk to a tech from Spirit at a demo ride event and they said they still work on Empulses. He said they had to replace the batteries on one recently. So the batteries can still be replaced under warranty. I think it 5 years or 100,000 miles.
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I just hit 6000 miles on my Empulse and I noticed it is starting to leak fluid from the left side of the gearbox assembly. Specifically around the left side motor cover right behind the shift lever. It looks like the same leak everyone else is getting.
I've also been getting a B9 error also. It used to flash every once in a while but it pretty much stays on all the time. Might have something to do with this.
I think it is coolant because I see some of it has dried up and it kind of crusty like old dried up coolant. When I rub it on my finger it feels kind of sticky like coolant.
Shayan how much was it to repair the leak when you took it to Spirit?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-CTCh37n/0/ce0f4109/L/0429201821_HDR-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-LB3gLKL/0/64c47abe/L/0429201821b_HDR-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-2VS4z9t/0/5edda9d8/L/0429201835_HDR-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-CcPHsqC/0/1a318664/L/0429202126a-L.jpg)
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This is the motor part on the photo. Maybe there's only a leak behind the bolt. But to be sure you have to take of the black cover of the sensor part. That's not so difficult, see fore the manual.
If it's only leaking from the hole of the bolt, then i would suggest that you put some liquid gasket in it and put the bolt in again.
See the pictures for more detail. Because the coolant is on the outside of the engine house, there's only a little space between the coolant area and the hole of the bolt.
Greetings from Holland.
Jos Velthoven
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more photo's
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Hello, it did cost me around 400$-500$ including everything so it was not bad that way. They said that this problem is likely to reoccur since it was only a temporary fix that they could perform and ideally the unit should've been replaced under warranty if they were really available from Polaris. What do u plan to do now?
Honestly, i moved to the Zero camp now as i auctioned off the Empulse :)
-Shayan
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Thanks jos velthoven for the pictures and info. Would I be able to do this with the motor assembly on the bike or would I have to remove the whole unit? Is there a gasket you can replace to fix this or the liquid gasket is the only way?
I think I will attempt to fix this myself. Maybe I will take it to Spirit and have them take a look at it and see what they think. I think the warranty expired last year so I it'll be out of pocket =/
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I changed my oil today and took a sample of the coolant and oil on one tray. It definitely looks like coolant that's coming out. The oil is grey and oily, slick. Where the coolant is orange colored and sticky. You can see the two of them together in one of the pictures. Is that the proper color of the coolant orange?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-9C23kGD/0/2a67d012/XL/0430201744-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-wZCwt7h/0/12b67775/XL/0430202134a-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-48TTs6W/0/40cef2a0/XL/0430202135-XL.jpg)
I cleaned up the leak and I'll monitor it for now. I'm not too worried about it as long as its not gushing coolant onto my tire. Should probably check the coolant level.
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Would I be able to do this with the motor assembly on the bike or would I have to remove the whole unit? Is there a gasket you can replace to fix this or the liquid gasket is the only way?
Answer: You can leave the motor where it is. Just unscrew the bolt and put soms liquid gasket in it and put back in the bolt. It probably is a leak in the liquid gasket inside. See photo. there is no real paper gasket inside. I have put the lith several times on and off, and i use the blue liquid gasket from locktite. See photo.
On this side of the motor there's normally no oil. If there's a leakage from the transmission oil you should see that on the bottom of the motor, between the motor and the casing where the motor fits in the bike.
If you do see oil on this side of the motor than it has come through the motor and you would not be able to drive...
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see photo
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if it is the bolt.
if not the o-ring is done, the rubber is not the right sort for the coolant.
replacement is not too difficult and you can leave the position sensor in place.
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Ah ic the bolt is what is actually causing the leak problem, it putting too much pressure on the gasket compared to other places.
Do I have to drain the coolant to get to this? Does it just start gushing out?
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If you need to drain the coolant (which you will as the bolt you think is problem is a drain bolt) than you must purge the cooling system when you refill it. There is another bolt on the top of the motor housing directly above the drain bolt. That needs to be removed as well as the radiator cap. Once you have repaired the "leak" then you need to refill the system with a 50/50 antifreeze and glycol mix. You add water to the system until the coolant starts to run out of the upper bolt. This is a vent for the motor housing. Re-install that bolt and continue to fill the system via the radiator cap until it is full to the top. At this point you have to remove the water pump relay from the low voltage fuse box. It is relay #2. I don't know if they are numbered but in the low voltage fuse box there are 4 relays and 8 fuses. In the high voltage side of the fuse box there is only 1 relay. Relay #2 (water pump relay) in the low voltage box is directly opposite the #1 relay (the only one) in the high voltage side of the box. After removing the relay you need to jump the pins in the box with a couple of spade connectors and a jumper wire. The relay should show what the pins do and you want to jump the two contact pins for the relay, not the coil pins. With the Key on and the bike in the ready position, you should be able to operate the coolant pump by putting the jumper in. You need to cycle the pump a few times until the coolant level in the standpipe stabilizes. Do not fill the standpipe all the way up as that is the only expansion tank in the system. The level should be a couple of inches below the radiator cap. At that point all that is left to do is to put the various cover bits and pieces back on and go out for a test ride.
Note: When full the coolant system holds approx one liter of coolant. The radiator cap is located behind and below the front frame headstock.
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ok thanks siai47 for the detailed info. I knew from the manual but it helps confirm what to do. I'll try and make a video about it when I do it, for now it's a small leak so I will wait till it gets worse. Any particular coolant I should use? I was planning to replace it with prestone 50/50 (the green bright green stuff) when I was going to replace it.
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What coolant to use is a good question. Just about anything that likes to work in aluminum is a good start. The green coolants are usually shorter life coolants with the long life coolants usually orange or red. Whatever you use (unless you flush the system) must be compatible with what is in there now. You could easily flush the system with water before you refill.
There is a whole new range of coolants out there for use in electric vehicle powertrain cooling systems. These use different things like de-ionized water and non conductive chemicals to provide increased electrical resistance if the coolant comes in contact with the High Voltage system. With the Parker motor design which brings the coolant into close contact with the motor windings this type of coolant might be one to consider. You are only buying a gallon of it and using a quart so the higher price of the premium coolant shouldn't be a factor.
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So here's an update on this. I recently removed the black plastic cover for the motor. I figured out you can pry the tabs off with a screw driver or trim removal tool if you pry inward of the cover. I found out that it is not leaking from that bolt instead something is leaking from within the cover. The whole inside of the cover is wet with coolant. The coolant is normally green but when it drips from this cover it is contaminated with rust so that's why it has the orange color. I made a seperate post about my motor temps not working properly and I believe it has something to do with this.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-HpwGhqL/0/543d9be5/XL/0712200343a-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-fHssJpF/0/a9d6724c/XL/0712200343b-XL.jpg)
Everything inside the cover has coolant over it. There's no where for it to go because the cover has a gasket around it. Some of it manages to weep out of the bottom of the cover, I guess that's where it's collecting.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-RwHBnjM/0/b9f2d84f/XL/0712200343c-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-Mhr9RPw/1/59bace33/XL/0712200344-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-8tmpTKs/0/35256138/XL/0712200344a-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-TpCbsKX/0/0b46c451/XL/0712200349a-XL.jpg)
The motor leads underneath this cover are all corroded
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-4L4jcW2/0/e7cbcfe9/XL/0712200343d-XL.jpg)
The encoder is has some surface corrosion as do the bolts that hold the rear of the black plastic cover on. So as long as I don't mess with the position of this do hickey I should be fine.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-n3LMMT2/0/2857f039/XL/0712200344_HDR-XL.jpg)
All the wiring is wet. I believe the black and red wire are the motor temp thermistor wires. So I'm thinking its all wet at the connector so it's probably shorting them.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-XcBcW68/0/a79c6c48/XL/0712200349-XL.jpg)
Sooooo the good thing is that it doesn't look like it's leaking from the cooling jacket cover. The leak is inside the cover some how and it's hard to tell where it's coming from because everything is wet in there. It looks like there was a sauna in there and coolant just condensate everywhere. So I think for the mean time I will do my best to clean up the coolant and corrosion. I'll spray some contact cleaner to flush out the coolant and dry everything. Clean the thermistor connector. It might be a good idea to put some tape around the connector to keep moisture out. Hopefully this will cure my motor temp indicator problem. I'll unbolt the motor leads and clean all the corrosion/deposits on everything. Then put the cover back on. Ride it for a bit and then remove the cover and attempt to see where the leak is coming from. Anyone have this problem? Ahh the joys of having a watercooled motor...
I also have a B9 system fault that is on all the time now. It has gradually gotten worse over time from intermittent to always on. It might be related to this also, since it has to deal with moisture and it's definitely moist in there.
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Cleaned up all the corrosion and coolant inside the cover. Was kinda hard to get out, the best way to get the coolant out is good ol water. I sprayed some water and inside there and wiped off. Next time I thought of using a steam cleaner to get the coolant out and it would dry much faster.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-KbRSDz2/0/88b8f605/XL/0712201916-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-S8KvLhb/0/c89b5ebc/XL/0712201919-XL.jpg)
If looks much better than before. You can see that the you can read the grade of the the bolts now.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-VPS5tnx/0/08cbe4d4/XL/0712201940_HDR-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-m4DmC3g/0/f3f89f55/XL/0712201940a_HDR-XL.jpg)
More cleaning. I think the coolant might be coming from the orifice where the wires are going in to. You can make out of silicone gasket in there.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-99CBDPw/0/296318dc/XL/0712201956-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-zCW2G2m/0/5d412070/XL/0712202015a_HDR-XL.jpg)
Encoder nice and clean. So I'm looking at this thing and it looks like you can remove this without losing the timing. There are 2 adjustments you can do to it. The plate has a eliptical holes for the bolt to slide it around. Then there is another part that has teeth. If you took the encoder out and and placed it back in the same tooth section would it still function? Let me know if anyone has tried this.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-MLxLsGC/0/e53819a9/XL/0712202015b_HDR-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-qjT2KQf/0/6a7014b5/XL/0712202153-XL.jpg)
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So I took the bike for a 10 mile ride on the freeway and it was overheating. It puked out some coolant from the overflow port. The thermistor is still not operating properly. I was hoping once I cleaned and dried everything it would work. But it would go from -30F to no more than 70F. That was not warm enough to kick the water pump on :( So I wound up riding back a slower route to try to keep the heat down. The coolant housing was so hot like you just got off a racetrack hot and the hose was not hot.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-hq2ghLw/0/546d4f0c/XL/0713201356_HDR-XL.jpg)
So here's what the gauge cluster is reading 51F the coolant housing is about 120F.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-V5NJjRD/0/6d89c650/XL/0713201512a_HDR-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-hckVkBH/1/7db4c4db/XL/0713201512_HDR-XL.jpg)
I pulled off the side cover and was surprised to find a lot of water everywhere again. The interesting thing about this water is it was just water mostly. It was CLEAR. This leads me to believe that perhaps there is some whater in that orifice still that I couldn't get out or I sprayed some water in there and couldn't get it out. The good thing is I haven't seen it leak from anywhere. My guess is it gets so hot inside this cover that it becomes a sauna in there and there's nowhere for the water to really go so it just stays in there in droplets.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-9fMt7R2/0/d740bb01/XL/0713201515-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-92XRrHT/0/6b5350c4/XL/0713201519-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-tKzn9cK/0/b584b43b/XL/0713201521-XL.jpg)
For the most part the stuff inside the cover is not that wet, not as wet as it was before.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-9pGzsdk/0/da5d88d2/XL/0713201518-XL.jpg)
I mentioned it on my other post of about the faulty motor temp sensor, but I found out that if you unplug the thermistor it will think the bike is too hot and turn the pump on. So by doing this I can keep my bike from overheating by just having the pump turn on whenever the bike is switched on. I won't get an overtemp warning also because when the gauge cluster reads 390F it stops complaining.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-QwTDpnb/0/9924391c/XL/0713201545-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-GFnwx3Q/0/a3472d26/XL/0713201547-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-4ndx45m/0/aaad24ee/XL/0713201545a-XL.jpg)
So I'll try and take the bike out again. Least i don't have to worry about it overheating anymore. I will dry everything and pop the cover off again after the ride and try to find out where it's leaking. I'm thinking maybe I should just drill a hole on the top and bottom of the cover so it has a vent and a drainage hole.
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No need to take off the hal motor sensor when removing the motor.
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Been riding the bike for about a week and it's doing well. I take the cover off everytime I get back home and check for condensation. The condensation is definitely situated where the wires are going into the motor as seen in this picture.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2016-Victory-Empulse-TT/Motor-Leak/i-4pwBBb9/0/4ce4b251/XL/0716201547a-XL.jpg)
What I have opted to do is leave the cover slightly ajar. The top part of the cover I don't fasten completely so it is a little open on top but the bottom is fastened all the way. I rode with it like that and no problems. What I might do is just take the gasket off. This will help vent the condensation. Definitely no more leaks coming from the bottom of the motor like before. I just have to keep an eye on the condensation so everything doesn't start corroding/oxidizing again.
Also no problem riding with the motor temp sensor disconnected, the pump just runs all the time and the motor cools nicely =)
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HadesOmega,
I'm a new Empulse TT owner and have checked out your videos. Thanks!!!!
So, I've been following this thread which led me to take off the motor cover and it looks exactly like yours with corroded bolts and condensate. Looks to be just water. I replaced the bolts with M8x1.00x16mm bolts with M8 washers from Lowes, which are identical to the old ones (same grade and length). The connections looked good but I cleaned them with my dremel anyway and coated the contact surfaces with dielectric grease. Then bolted it up, but I haven't run it yet due to the weather - lotsa thunderstorms here for the next several days.
Do you have any updates on your situation?
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Wow so I'm not the only one. Seems like if Victory was still selling these bikes this might've been a recall issue.
I have been riding the bike and it runs great. After a couple rides I will pop the cover off and hose it off with water and clean any moisture I see in there. Maybe i will paint the bolt heads so they don't start corroding. I feel like if I keep popping the cover off it's going to break eventually O_o' and I don't know where you can buy these covers.
Oh yeah I also took the cover gasket off also to help it vent a bit.
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Hello Karel,
You ask for some photo's of the inside of the lith of the motor. I will place them on this page.
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see photo
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Hello Jos,
thanks a lot for the detailed photos of the flange from the inside.
As I understand it, is it a flat O-ring located under the flange bolts? Or is there no o-ring at all?
Is there also a second seal on the inside diameter of the flange?
Is the dirty part caused by coolant? I thought the cooling was only in the oval holes on the outer perimeter.
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The dirt was from the burned wires. (photo)
If the coolant is leaking from the outside you can better let the lith on the motor.
The real 'seal' is the blue Locktight. When you put the lith back on the motor you have to seal it at the edge between the coolant area and the motor.
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more photo's
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photo
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Thank you for the detailed photos of the disassembly of the Parker engine, it is very beneficial for me to see it inside. Do you happen to have a photo of the location of the temperature sensor?
BTW: how did you manage to burn the engine inside? Did it overheat due to a lack of coolant or did you overload it with a high current?
When I think of HadesOmega's coolant leak, I wonder if this version is possible:
Coolant began to leak under the flange bolt located above the power cables. There is a hole in the flange for the power cables and it seems to me to be the weakest point for a perfect seal. The liquid could easily flow down, where it remained in the lowest place of the plastic cover. What do you think?
Now, perhaps, I have finally understood how the motor flange is sealed to the body. I was a little confused before because I was studying an exploded 3D model, but it was a previous generation Brammo Empulse R 2013 engine with a "gold" flange. There it was solved a little differently and there really were rubber o-rings.
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Wow the motor is so tiny