Brammo Owners Forum
Brammo Empulse Discussion => Brammo Empulse Mods => Topic started by: Gavin on November 02, 2012, 10:47:06 PM
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Ohlins kit for the #EmpulseTTX is legit! @TTXGP @ohlinsracing http://lockerz.com/s/258432758 (http://lockerz.com/s/258432758)
per Brian's Twitter post
Gavin
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gawd i hate lockerz.....well hate is too strong...but boy is it tough to get an image link from them....
(http://brammoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/x2_f675ef6.jpg)
Gavin
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Yeah, he's kind of stubborn about that. Lockerz for pics, non-YouTube for videos. There is an easier way.
That shock looks sick, though.
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yeah...would look wicked on the black model...and the white...
I love how easily adjustable they look...I always have a horrid time adjusting any shock...those look to be dummy proof...exactly what I need :)
Gavin
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Just swapped the stock mirrors for some Rizoma Spy mirrors. They look great, but they're a bit small. CRG's selection might be a better long term option (have them on another bike), but I'll see how these do for a while.
Before and after photos attached...
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I have the CRG lane-splitters on my Enertia and love them. Those mirrors look close to the same size.
I really like how such a little thing can change the look of the bike so much. Plus, it's nice to see something in the mirror besides your shoulders.
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Sweet! I'm partial to the CRG lane-splitters as well, but these look really nice. I love how the bar-end mirrors really give the bike more of the "cafe" look - low and mean.
Next up... Rizoma LED turnsignals and some adjustable levers (CRG and ASV have some nice ones). Nice garage BTW... (jealous)
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Mirrors look good!
I will add the turn signals to my list as well (thanks Brian).
It will be interesting to see how people go about chopping the tail.
Attached is my Photoshoped, droid wallpaper version.
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Next up... Rizoma LED turnsignals and some adjustable levers (CRG and ASV have some nice ones). Nice garage BTW... (jealous)
Brian, go easy on Ain. He's just sprung for an Empulse R, for cryin' out loud!
And now you're dangling beautiful EXPENSIVE billet moto jewelry porn in front of him?
Well, the upside is he can always say, "The Director of Product Development told me to!"
Well I just looked up the Rizoma LED signals, and the Zero-11 model might just be the cheapest thing in the Rizoma catalog. Now, all I need is the Empulse!
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Those mirrors look the business! Very nice.
Speaking of mods, Im still as big fan of the gold battery covers:
(http://distilleryimage8.instagram.com/7734a9e447e011e294a422000a1f9874_7.jpg)
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I think EB is making a hint to Brammo about his soon to be delivered Empulse R...
White with gold battery covers...
I'm sure he wouldn't mind those Ohlin race shocks too :)
Gavin
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You're right Gavin, I would LOVE to have the gold battery covers... and I would pay extra for them too! See, that's another hint ;-)
They highlight the batteries and match the forks. I wouldnt mind those Ohlin's shocks either ;D
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Picked up a white Empulse R yesterday, and, under a rainbow, rode home between showers. Just gotta say: I love this bike! Definitely worth the wait.
Got it into 6th gear on the freeway and she felt solid at 75 mph.
Today: too much rain with wind up to 50 mph gusts, so I just go out in the garage every hour and drool over her in repose among my stuff. Shimmering. Wants to go.
I did manage to work on it a bit: installed CRG bar-end mirrors which I like a lot on the bike, but haven't ridden on the freeway yet with them. They are truly beautifully made, and their price reflects it.
The stock mirrors are OK, but I do a lot of lane-splitting and wanted to move the mirrors down, below the level of car/truck mirrors. The overall width at 31.5" is 1 inch more than my TMax scooter, but since their level is low, it's going to work well. I filled the sockets for the stock mirrors with thick grease until I can install a pair of cut-off machine screws.
I also installed a proper horn. The stock one is the wimpiest I've ever heard: like why even bother mounting it? It might be useful to say, "Excuse me please, if you don't mind too terribly much", for pedestrians in a crosswalk, but would be totally lost at being able to say, "Move over now!" at freeway speeds. I went with Scuderia's PIAA Sports line Slim Horn. While not a blaster, it's way more effective than the stock tweeter. It fit exactly where the stock POS was, though it's quite a bit larger. It does stick down more, but I don't think the shock excursion limit will allow the fender to impact it on bumps. If I notice it's cracked all to pieces, well then, I was wrong! :-\
Next is to tackle rigging up a proper 12V accessory port. The bike comes only with a small white electronics connector tucked under the plastic covers in front on the right side. I guess I'll have to visit Radio Shack to find a mating connector and run the leads over to a Centech fuse block that I'll mount some place creatively, in order to run a few items. For the price, it would be a nice touch for Brammo to have fitted two 12V accesses like BMW does on some its models: a powerlet port (or cigarette lighter receptacle), and a small connector to hard-wire a GPS etc.
I've got an email off to Brammo to find out the load limit on the 12V supply.
I want to get power to my Gerbings jacket, since, for San Francisco, it's been cold these past days: 39 one morning on my way to work.
In lieu of my usual heated grips, I may spring for heated gloves, since I made the mistake of trying some on while waiting yesterday at Scuderia. (Yes they have a heated pair just lying in wait for you! Just push the big red button, slip your hands in, grin and say, "My, that's nice. Really nice." Then they gotcha.)
Next up is some Rizoma Zero11 LED turn signals (thanks, Brian!). And some Hyperlites brake flashers and front amber running lights. And....
Eventually, I may have to give Rick Mayer a visit and see about getting a custom seat made. While the stock seat is not uncomfortable, it's just weird, at least to my butt. The most comfortable (widest) part is toward the rear, which is not uncommon. But once I slide back to that portion of the saddle, I find it's slopped up quite a bit and causes my body to place more weight onto my hands and slide back down into the more forward, more narrow portion, where the pressure is borne more like a bicycle saddle, not on the sit-bones. Maybe I'll get used to it. Maybe not.
I REALLY need some bags, since I'll be using this on-the-job as a visiting nurse. No word yet from Brammo on ETA. They're "in development". Meanwhile Rok-Straps, a small duffel, and my backpack will have to do. Sun tomorrow :)
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Nice, and Congrats.
I would probably follow your lead with the mirrors and horn.
I've never use heated gear (even that one ride at minus 5 degrees F), but I tried on a pair of FirstGear carbon heated gloves and they felt so nice I almost bought them to use without the heater hookup...
Maybe I'll get them this year....
Have fun, ride safe
Gavin
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Gavin - try heated gear, dude! The "magic layer". As I get older, I'm in awe every time I turn my jacket liner on. It's just wonderful to ride in cold and rain and be comfy. Safer too.
I took a mc tour of the Alps a few years ago and was way miserable in freezing rain and snow, even with heated grips (my gloves weren't waterproof). I had every piece of wool on that I own, and I just couldn't stay warm. The guys with heated gear? They were all smiling. THAT's when I made my decision.
Glad I did, especially at the end of a long winter day at work, when my metabolism is running on empty at 6 pm and I'm cold just walking around. I get on my bike to warm up!
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I badly want heated gloves .. don't need a heated upper layer for now, as I pretty much stop riding once the ground turns freezing .. but my hands get very cold, even with air deflectors and what are supposedly winter gloves. (They're totally not)
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http://m.motorcycle-superstore.com/ItemPage.aspx?DivisionGroupId=14&DivisionId=67&DepartmentId=904&ItemStyleId=10885 (http://m.motorcycle-superstore.com/ItemPage.aspx?DivisionGroupId=14&DivisionId=67&DepartmentId=904&ItemStyleId=10885)
First Gear Carbon heated gloves
I've never used them as I don't have the electrical system on my current ride,
But I did try them on at a store and LOVED the fit and feel
I like to be tough and go without the fancy heated stuff, but I might change my mind for these gloves... Plus I like he "safer" comment.
I can see being safer when not shivering insanely
Gavin
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Picked up a white Empulse R yesterday, and, under a rainbow, rode home between showers. Just gotta say: I love this bike! Definitely worth the wait.
Got it into 6th gear on the freeway and she felt solid at 75 mph.
I've got an email off to Brammo to find out the load limit on the 12V supply.
Eventually, I may have to give Rick Mayer a visit and see about getting a custom seat made.
I REALLY need some bags, since I'll be using this on-the-job as a visiting nurse. No word yet from Brammo on ETA. They're "in development". Meanwhile Rok-Straps, a small duffel, and my backpack will have to do. Sun tomorrow :)
To answer some questions:
6th gear @ 75mph - Was that in normal or sport mode? If normal mode, then probably about right, but in Sport mode you'll be in 4th most likely at this speed and the appropriate motor rpm (5-6k rpm).
You'll need to determine the current or wattage requirements for the heated gear you're targeting. There are some extra watts available on the 12Vdc system, but running a vest, gloves, gps, louder horn, and auxillary lighting is probably not going to work. It may run fine until you go to lay on the horn and blow a fuse...
The slope of the back of the seat is due to some tight packaging with the on-board 3kW charger, which you're basically sitting on top of. You could "lengthen" the seating area, but you'd have to raise the seat height overall to do it. For those with long legs that feel "cramped", this probably wouldn't be too much of an issue.
The GIVI saddle bags were shown at EICMA, so we're just finalizing the production details now. Sorry for the delay. As a side note, you should be able to use almost any sport bike tail bag on the bike. I used a tailbag designed for my BMW S1000RR during testing a few weeks ago and found that it worked just great. There's plenty of hard parts to strap to back there. You'll just lose your passenger seat. Something like this would work well...http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14/71/986/28888/ITEM/MotoCentric-Mototrek-Sport-Tail-Bag.aspx (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14/71/986/28888/ITEM/MotoCentric-Mototrek-Sport-Tail-Bag.aspx)
Last, but not least, WE NEED PICTURES! ;)
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I badly want heated gloves .. don't need a heated upper layer for now, as I pretty much stop riding once the ground turns freezing .. but my hands get very cold, even with air deflectors and what are supposedly winter gloves. (They're totally not)
I have seen several types of heated gloves advertized, using rechargeable Li batteries that are supposed to keep your hands warm for several hours on a charge. Most locate the batteries in a pouch on the upper portion of the gauntlet. I have seen these advertized in motorcycle accessory and outdoor supply catalogs. They may not work as well as hard-wired 12V gloves, but would be a lot more convenient to use and you would not have to install a 12V accessory plug, or worry about taxing the electrical system on your bike.
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To answer some questions:
6th gear @ 75mph - Was that in normal or sport mode? If normal mode, then probably about right, but in Sport mode you'll be in 4th most likely at this speed and the appropriate motor rpm (5-6k rpm).
You'll need to determine the current or wattage requirements for the heated gear you're targeting. There are some extra watts available on the 12Vdc system, but running a vest, gloves, gps, louder horn, and auxillary lighting is probably not going to work. It may run fine until you go to lay on the horn and blow a fuse...
The slope of the back of the seat is due to some tight packaging with the on-board 3kW charger, which you're basically sitting on top of. You could "lengthen" the seating area, but you'd have to raise the seat height overall to do it. For those with long legs that feel "cramped", this probably wouldn't be too much of an issue.
The GIVI saddle bags were shown at EICMA, so we're just finalizing the production details now. Sorry for the delay. As a side note, you should be able to use almost any sport bike tail bag on the bike. I used a tailbag designed for my BMW S1000RR during testing a few weeks ago and found that it worked just great. There's plenty of hard parts to strap to back there. You'll just lose your passenger seat. Something like this would work well...http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14/71/986/28888/ITEM/MotoCentric-Mototrek-Sport-Tail-Bag.aspx (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14/71/986/28888/ITEM/MotoCentric-Mototrek-Sport-Tail-Bag.aspx)
Last, but not least, WE NEED PICTURES! ;)
Freeway was in normal mode. Can't use sport mode until whatever needs breaking in is broke in.
I can easily determine my wattage requirements for the gear I want to run. What I'm asking is for the wattage limit of the 12V supply... something maybe a little more precise than "some extra watts available." :(
Jacket liner = 77 watts on full
Gloves = 30 watts on full
LED running lights 3 watts
Horn = 60 watts which is maybe 30 more than stock horn?
Total approx 140 watts. Is my fuse blown?
Someday I may let a seat guru play with the seat. It works OK for now. I appreciate the charger being under there and how it constrains the seat design. I don't know how you guys get it all to fit together at all!
I remember liking the looks of the Givi side cases and look forward to getting some. Is their a top case in the works? Tail bags don't cut it for me: I need a hard case for big city security.
For now, there's a whopping total of one picture of me and the bike on the Brammo FB page. I'll get pics of my mods up fairly soon.
I put on 45 miles today and used 43% of the battery: mixed freeway and city. So 1% = 1 mile and 100% = 100 miles... as advertised. What a fun bike to ride!
Thanks for the reply and have a good holiday.
Bill
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Love that the Brammo bikes are rolling out just in time for the holidays.
Btw, congrats on the bike, shiny.. first forum member in long-standing to snag an Empulse.
Possible to rig up a switch to cut power to the vest / gloves when you lay into the horn?
Hope all of you and yours enjoy your family time this holiday season. Hopefully everyone at Brammo can take at least a quick breather : )
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Possible to rig up a switch to cut power to the vest / gloves when you lay into the horn?
Sounds like a great idea. Now just post the schematic and parts list! Maybe we should enter it in the aftermarket arena, with the catch phrase: "Honk too much and freeze your butt!"
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Freeway was in normal mode. Can't use sport mode until whatever needs breaking in is broke in.
I can easily determine my wattage requirements for the gear I want to run. What I'm asking is for the wattage limit of the 12V supply... something maybe a little more precise than "some extra watts available." :(
Jacket liner = 77 watts on full
Gloves = 30 watts on full
LED running lights 3 watts
Horn = 60 watts which is maybe 30 more than stock horn?
Total approx 140 watts. Is my fuse blown?
Someday I may let a seat guru play with the seat. It works OK for now. I appreciate the charger being under there and how it constrains the seat design. I don't know how you guys get it all to fit together at all!
I remember liking the looks of the Givi side cases and look forward to getting some. Is their a top case in the works? Tail bags don't cut it for me: I need a hard case for big city security.
For now, there's a whopping total of one picture of me and the bike on the Brammo FB page. I'll get pics of my mods up fairly soon.
I put on 45 miles today and used 43% of the battery: mixed freeway and city. So 1% = 1 mile and 100% = 100 miles... as advertised. What a fun bike to ride!
Thanks for the reply and have a good holiday.
Bill
Ok. That makes sense for normal mode under the break-in procedure (nice job sticking to it). The break-in is primarily for the transmission. You'll notice that it will start to "free-up" and shift a bit "slicker" once the break-in period is over. I think you'll also be impressed with the performance boost in sport mode.
Understood on your question for the wattage budget that remains on the bike. I don't know this answer off the top of my head, so I'll have to get back to you on that. You may receive an answer from our Service Manager earlier if you've already emailed him. I believe we use a 300 Watt DC-DC converter, so you can probably understand my concern about not overloading it.
Yeah - I sometimes forget that we live in a small community where theft is relatively rare. Just thought you could use a tail bag if you just happened to have one around until the Givi side bags show up.
Glad to hear you're able to get out and ride. I'm also glad you're happy with the range and you'll be even happier as you notice the range increase further when it gets warmer in the Spring. If you can keep the bike plugged in and in a warm garage over night, it will help as well. Happy Holidays!
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Thanks for the reply, on Christmas day, even. No rest for the wicked?
Maybe a simpler way to approach the 12V wattage available issue is simply to go by what size fuse is on that circuit. I have no idea where the fuses are, so I will stop by Scuderia and pester their tech guys. Meanwhile if your engineering team has some sage advice, I'm sure the whole community would benefit. I would certainly hate to damage a 300W converter. Of the cuff, it would seem headlight, instruments, brake/tail light and turn signals would leave plenty left over. But I'm one of those weird dudes that likes numbers! (Not as much as protomech, though!)
Had a great ride today in pouring rain, 45F. Had the whole sweeping twisty road to myself and cruising along at 50 mph or so with the smooth, powerful, hum of the motor: sweet!
I'm over 1/2 way through break-in, so I can soon play with the Sport setting. I'm sure I'll like it. I already feel the tranny getting easier to shift.
Question: On page 20, the manual says there is no need to rev-match when downshifting...
Yet Shelina Moreda in her interview about her recent track testing says she was told it's important to do so.
My experience so far: Not blipping the throttle at all feels harsher on the drive train than a very quick, very slight blip. But if I try actually to spin the motor up as on an ICE, it quickly over revs. Is that what the manual is cautioning against? Or should I just let the tranny's electronic magic handle things and clutch and jam the shifter into the next lower gear without touching the throttle?
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Congrats on the new wheels Shiny!! Thats awesome!
Bummer about the horn, I like a nice loud horn to supplement my middle finger from time to time, so I will probably upgrade that eventually.
I didnt know the Empulse had an accessory port so I got a battery powered vest... I dont think it will be nearly as warm as your 12v jacket liner but it should be much better than nothing. I think my next purchase will be heated gloves, then I should be all set.
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I didnt know the Empulse had an accessory port so I got a battery powered vest... I dont think it will be nearly as warm as your 12v jacket liner but it should be much better than nothing. I think my next purchase will be heated gloves, then I should be all set.
I too have purchased a self-contained vest (Hawaii Jett Vest from Australia) and it does help quite a bit with some insulation over it and, of course, excellent wind protection of the outer layer. But, as you stated, it's nothing like having 77W of heat wrapped around back, chest, arms and neck!
So are you looking at separate self-contained-battery-operated gloves? If so, what brand looks good?
I'm thinking another option, if there's not enough juice available through the Empulse's 12V plug for liner and gloves, would be to use the self-contained vest along with gloves powered by the 12Vplug. Powering gloves only would use only 30W. It's crucial to me to have hands that aren't numb and painful.
Another option, once the side cases are available would be to haul around a spare 12V battery to power the jacket liner. I happen to have a moto battery that's in decent shape that would power the liner for a couple of hours, though I doubt it would be happy with such deep-cycle duty.
A search just found this lithium battery with built-in protection circuit that, at 4 lbs., could easily be carried in a backpack, for $250:
http://www.all-battery.com/148volt-20ahheavydutyli-polypackwithpcbcustomize.aspx (http://www.all-battery.com/148volt-20ahheavydutyli-polypackwithpcbcustomize.aspx)
14.8 volts and 20 Ah would power a 77W jacket liner for 3 hours on a charge. This battery is rated at 8 amps continuous discharge.
Size is 205mm x 150mm x 31.5mm
They also have a smaller 13 Ah version for $150 that would be good for a couple of hours:
http://www.all-battery.com/TenergyLi-Ion18650_14.8V13000mAhPCBProtectedRechargeableBatteryPack-31047.aspx (http://www.all-battery.com/TenergyLi-Ion18650_14.8V13000mAhPCBProtectedRechargeableBatteryPack-31047.aspx)
Add a charger for $20, and we're talking some relatively big bucks to save on size and weight vs. lead acid.
Let's just hope the wonderful wizards at Brammo have considered heated clothing in their 12V plug's capacity. After all, anybody interested in an electric bike is gonna want to farkle it with all sorts of electronics!
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I wont be on the bike longer than I have to be during cold weather so I would only need about an hour or two of battery life. The vest I got is this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WAATYG/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WAATYG/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00)
Pretty happy with it overall, and it was relatively inexpensive.
Not sure what gloves im gonna get, but I really like the guys at sportbiketrackgear.com, though they have very limited options from what I can tell. They have one pair that are battery powered:
http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=13032 (http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=13032)
And one pair that utilize the accessory port:
http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=11718 (http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=11718)
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Thanks for the reply, on Christmas day, even. No rest for the wicked?
Question: On page 20, the manual says there is no need to rev-match when downshifting...
Yet Shelina Moreda in her interview about her recent track testing says she was told it's important to do so.
My experience so far: Not blipping the throttle at all feels harsher on the drive train than a very quick, very slight blip. But if I try actually to spin the motor up as on an ICE, it quickly over revs. Is that what the manual is cautioning against? Or should I just let the tranny's electronic magic handle things and clutch and jam the shifter into the next lower gear without touching the throttle?
Ha! No rest for the weary more like it... I've got a 3 month old, so I'm awake at weird hours and sometimes operating in a semi-comatose fog due to sleep deprivation... concentrating on technical details of the bikes keeps me sane. Thanks for asking. ;)
Hmmm... I don't recall telling Shelina to match revs on the downshift, but maybe it's something EBoz told her to try. I don't typically blip the throttle and don't really think it's necessary, but if you think it makes the shift smoother, then I don't really see a problem with it. As you mention, it is quite easy to over-rev the motor with no load, so a full "blip" should be avoided. I think it also depends on the speed of the bike and the speed of the shift. I can definitely see how spinning the motor would help engage a gear more smoothly at lower speeds.
You don't really need to use the clutch on the upshift if you "power-shift" it - i.e. back off throttle for a second to unload the tranny and then grab the shift. You should, however, always use the clutch on the downshift. The goal, as with any ICE bike, is to initiate the shift as smoothly as possible as it's easier on the tranny and also avoids upsetting the chassis as you're charging into corners. It's just good practice on top of that. I think you're on the right track and I think you'll find that she rewards you well when you figure out all the little nuansces (I like to think of them as "character") ;)
Hope that helps... I plan on talking to the guys about the 12V accessory port tomorrow...
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It gets better Brian.
Sadly nothing kept me sane when mine were 3 months old and sleep was an elusive and exotic jewel from some faraway time. (My wife and I worked opposite shifts at the hospital for a year so we didn't have to do day care...but what it really meant was that for a year neither of us got sleep and hardly saw each other...like being two single parents raising the same kid...I would likely do it differently if I could do it over, but we were young and dumb at the time...now we are both older and, well my wife is wiser...)
Some say sanity has eluded me ever since, but those are just my friends and family and people who know me best...so I'm sure they don't know what they're talking about.
Soon comes the crawling, talking, walking...it is a joy every minute that I am now getting to re-live with my granddaughter...
But enough of the sappy stuff...if you're asking the guys about the 12V port, see if the numbers are the same for the Plus please...
Thanks
Gavin
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Not to worry, Brian: Those child-rearing challenges all settle down about the time they're 30!
Today, I got my 150 miles on the bike and am liking it more and more. This is one cool machine! 600 is next, and then I get to try Sport mode. (OK, I did try it briefly, and it was very nice, but I didn't wring its neck.)
Today I ran the battery down to 15% for the first time, and, when accelerating up a long hill, I noticed some brief, partial cut outs. No cut outs, really, but more like a brief, subtle rapid stutter, with no degree of power loss that was concerning me, just noticeable. Probably some low voltage sensor getting tweaked at the current I was demanding. If this is something that shouldn't have happened, please let me know. Otherwise I can easily live with it.
Another question: There's nothing about suspension in the interim manual. I'm not interested in riding hard in the twisties, except occasionally. 99% of the time, I'm commuting and working all day long from the bike in San Francisco, well renown for pavement that's slightly smoother than the topography of a pizza with everything on it.
So what I would like to know is how to adjust the suspension so it is the softest possible, reacting as quickly as possible to sharp changes. On the rear shock and the front forks there are screws with + and - signs on them. I turned everything as far as possible toward the negative and the ride was a bit smoother, less harsh. Any suggestions on how to turn this magnificent sporting machine into a water bed? A Gold Wing? OK, something softer than it came to me?
Thanks for all the answers, and maybe we should move this to a new topic, like "Newbie Empulse Rider Questions".
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But enough of the sappy stuff...if you're asking the guys about the 12V port, see if the numbers are the same for the Plus please...
The manual for the Plus says there's a 4A/12V fuse for AUX, I suppose that says something about how much power you can get from it? In this question in the Enertia Plus topic (http://brammoforum.com/index.php?topic=1751.msg13239#msg13239) I asked about what I think is the Plus's accessory port, or what that connector is otherwise. Would you happen to know that, Brian?
thanks, Frank
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BrammoFan....
Perhaps we could use an Ask Brammo sub forum...now that bikes are rolling into dealers and new owners hands, more people are going to be asking more questions...
It would be nice, now that bikes are getting to dealers and new owners, if Brammo had somebody (Adam? Matt? James?) check the forum once a day and answered the questions they could...and punted on the ones that are "above their pay scale".
Gavin
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Today I ran the battery down to 15% for the first time, and, when accelerating up a long hill, I noticed some brief, partial cut outs. No cut outs, really, but more like a brief, subtle rapid stutter, with no degree of power loss that was concerning me, just noticeable. Probably some low voltage sensor getting tweaked at the current I was demanding. If this is something that shouldn't have happened, please let me know. Otherwise I can easily live with it.
So what I would like to know is how to adjust the suspension so it is the softest possible, reacting as quickly as possible to sharp changes. On the rear shock and the front forks there are screws with + and - signs on them. I turned everything as far as possible toward the negative and the ride was a bit smoother, less harsh. Any suggestions on how to turn this magnificent sporting machine into a water bed? A Gold Wing? OK, something softer than it came to me?
Thanks for all the answers, and maybe we should move this to a new topic, like "Newbie Empulse Rider Questions".
Given that the ambient temperature is still rather low, meaning the batteries will be relatively cold, and you were accelerating up a hill with low SOC, I would guess what you felt was the low voltage protection kicking in. If you are at a low SOC (State of Charge), then the voltage on the battery pack is also low. For the same power, you now require the pack to deliver more current. When you deliver this current, the pack voltage "sags" or drops. If any of the cells reach below about 3.0Vdc for more than a short period of time, then the motor controller will start reducing current to prevent the pack from being damaged. I'm guessing that once you made it to the top of the hill or to a flatter section, the issue went away as the current demand (and thus battery voltage sag) were not as high. Managing the battery at low SOC becomes quite difficult as the capacity remaining depends heavily on how it will be drawn out. We, of course, try to leave a safety margin there so you do not experience the protection scheme above single digit SOC, but it is difficult to account for every situation. When you return to Scuderia for your first service, they can pull the log file and verify this is what was going on. They will be able to see recorded ambient temperature, speed, battery voltage, current, motor controller parameters, throttle position, and any error codes or flags. The diagnostic tool set for the bike is pretty impressive (IMHO).
Point taken on the streets in SF. The Empulse R does have adjustability in the suspension, but it's still on the "sporty" side rather than the "plush" side. Getting the bike to the Goldwing setting may not be possible. Next steps I would recommend would be looking at dropping tire pressures ever so slightly or changing to a less sporty, year-round tire that has a bit more compliant side wall. In the meantime, I'll ask Aaron Bland, suspension guru, if there's more that could be done on the settings from what you've already described.
Agreed that all these comments should probably reside in another area of the forum for the benefit of all Empulse owners. Point me there and I'll gladly go...
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Modern suspensions seem to be set up pretty tight when they are new. The seals are tight and other parts need some break-in before they loosen up a bit and the suspension becomes more compliant. This is especially true for high-end sportbike suspension components. In my experience, it takes at least 1000 miles of street riding to get the parts working together smoothly.
The other problem is that the designers of these suspensions typically are racers and set up their suspension components with an eye on track day users. On the track, with its very smooth pavement, a tight and controlled suspension handles much better than one that is looser (and therefore more comfortable to the rider). No one makes a sportbike suspension system for conditions like San Francisco's streets. For that you need a dual purpose bike, not a sport bike.
The FastAce suspension on my Zero is made by a company that specializes in small motocross motorcycle suspensions. It was quite stiff and made a "thunking" noise when going over bumps when it was new. This was apparently caused by tight seals at the bottom of the front fork female section. I was able to reduce the noise and smooth the action a little with some Teflon spray lube on the male slider. After about 1000 miles, the noise went away and the fully-adjustable suspension now works better, especially when hitting a large pothole or bump. But it still doesn't work all that great when dealing with small irregularities, such as freeway expansion joints and the like.
I might add that there are a number of suspension specialists in the Bay Area (with not much to do right now) that would be familiar with your forks and rear shock and would be happy to help you set up your suspension, or make recommendations for new springs and valving that will make it work for your type of riding. My guess is that Scuderia West knows someone local that can perform this service for you - if they can't do it themselves.
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Point taken on the streets in SF. The Empulse R does have adjustability in the suspension, but it's still on the "sporty" side rather than the "plush" side. Getting the bike to the Goldwing setting may not be possible. Next steps I would recommend would be looking at dropping tire pressures ever so slightly or changing to a less sporty, year-round tire that has a bit more compliant side wall. In the meantime, I'll ask Aaron Bland, suspension guru, if there's more that could be done on the settings from what you've already described.
Agreed that all these comments should probably reside in another area of the forum for the benefit of all Empulse owners. Point me there and I'll gladly go...
I thought of dropping tire pressure: I can feel they're extra firm. Odd that the manual says to check the tire pressure but doesn't specify psi other than a picture of the Certification Label on p. 8 which shows 42 psi front and rear. Indeed, my bike was delivered with these levels, but these levels are for the Gross Axle Weight Rating. Manuals for all my other bikes, in addition to the GAWR, also specified normal settings, usually for both one rider and with a passenger, and usually more in the rear than the front.
When you advise dropping the pressure ever so slightly, do you think my usual preference of 30 psi front and 36 psi rear would be acceptable? This is what my 490 lbs. R1200R recommended, with 41 psi rear when carrying a passenger on the similar size tires. I'm aware that range would suffer somewhat, but I've got plenty more range cushion than butt cushion. :D
Thanks for the suggestion, Richard. I was planning dropping by Scuderia today to inquire. Point taken about my choice of a sport bike over a dual purpose. And I get that racers have a totally different requirement. But I can't stop remembering how my harsh stock R1200R ride was magically transformed, and from the very first ride, after installing Wilbers shocks. It was taut and predictable in the twisties, AND, while not "plush", was very adept at handling abrupt surfaces that define SF streets. But then I put on some pricey Bitubo suspension on my TMax, and it was harsher than stock. Sigh...
I copied and pasted a Q&A from here to a new topic: "Empulse Rider Questions" so maybe we can move this over there.
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hmmmm, goldwing comfort on a Brammo? hell, that could be the Brammo Touring bike...just image how many batteries you could shove into a Goldwing sized bike. It wouldn't be cheap, but then neither are Goldwings...still it would likely be close to Nissan Leaf prices...but would go twice as far as the LEAF...probably around Telsa range...
Gavin
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"Empulse Rider Questions" works....I still prefer Ask A Brammo...
not sure why, just like how it sounds...
Gavin
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For solo riding on my R1200R, I run 36 pounds in the front tire and 39 pounds in the rear tire. 42 pounds in the rear would be for carrying a maximum load.
One of my big complaints about BMW is that they traditionally have used a lot of compression damping in their front and rear suspensions. I think they do this to compensate for relatively soft springs and their concern that the suspension might bottom when fully loaded and hitting a large bump or pothole. But I don't care for their stock suspensions, with one exception. My R12R has their ESA (Electronic Suspension Adjustment) system and it works pretty well on a touring bike. Comfort is quite compliant, Normal works well for most backroad riding and Sport is too stiff for my taste, but works well on a smooth road - if you can find one. The automatic spring pre-load adjustment for a solo rider, a solo rider with luggage and two-up with luggage also works well and is a nice touch. It sure beats having to turn a large ring against a stiff spring on most other single shock suspensions. All you do is push a button and a motor does the turning for you. :)
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Just beware that lowering the tire pressure will also reduce the range of your bike.
Probably the reason that the pressures are at the high side on delivery.
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Ooooo, Richard, you sprung for the ESA? (pun intended)
Pushing a button sounds nice. I rode with pretty much the same pressure as you on my R1200R.
The Empulse didn't come with a spanner to adjust the preload on the rear, and it looks difficult (impossible) to get to with a wrench anyway, since it's nestled in between a frame tube and some under-seat plastic. So I'll prevail upon Scuderia to help with that.
Kingcharles, I'm not too worried about range for my normal day-to-day riding: plenty to spare.
Today I adjusted the pressures to 36 front and rear and the ride was both slightly smoother and slightly less responsive when throwing the bike into a turn. My pressures are probably still a bit too high, since I read somewhere that adjusting them "cold" means 70F, not the 45F of my garage this morning.
Oh well, the bike's still a blast and I'm sure I can get the suspension sorted out, one way or another. Meanwhile, I've got to work diligently on getting my break-in barrier of 600 miles to fall, quickly, because I really want to play with Sport mode. 8)
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Those mirrors look the business! Very nice.
Speaking of mods, Im still as big fan of the gold battery covers:
(http://distilleryimage8.instagram.com/7734a9e447e011e294a422000a1f9874_7.jpg)
Slightly different angle on that TTX shot, plus less instagram crap.
(http://brammoelectricmotorcycles.smugmug.com/Electric-Motorcycles/TTX/i-JgbcdtQ/0/L/IMG_2052-L.jpg)
Gold + yellow + white + black? I smell a Georgia Tech themed bike... : )
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Ahh, yes. The Shelina Moreda interview. And where would you find that? :-X
I went back and only 7(?) minutes in we start talking about shifting the Empulse. She doesn't say she was told to blip the throttle, she was just pointing out to the listeners that they should. Remember that this is in racing conditions, and the reason was to keep the chassis from getting unsettled while charging hard into a corner. Probably something she discovered, or as Brian said, worked out talking to EBoz.