Brammo Owners Forum
Brammo Empulse Discussion => Brammo Empulse => Topic started by: Haplo on October 01, 2023, 07:08:10 AM
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Hi all, Bert here,
I joined the forum yesterday and introduced myself and my Brammo in another topic. With this topic I hope to find some help to tackle the B40 error on my Brammo..
Short history: since purchase frequently the B9 error popped up. Usually after something like 10 minutes riding it disappeared. At 1 or 2 occasions the B40 error popped up, but after switching ignition (can you speak of ignition with an EV??) off/on I was able to continue my journey without any more issues. Last week the B40 error popped up after riding for 30 seconds. I again restarted, but after doing that several times it was clear the error popped up constantly after 30 seconds. Prior to those 30 seconds I was able to ride normally. I was glad I was able to limb home.. :)
I tried charging the bike, but to no avail. The Brammo keeps giving B40 after 30 seconds. The first few days trying I was still able to engage the engine in those first 30 seconds, but now it also doesn't engage any more.
Yestrday I started disassembling it but found no real issues yet. I have heard of corroded cables, or connections, but almost everthing looks very nice and clean. The only connections I found which were dirty and wet were the CAN-Bus connections on the battery's. I disconnectied all of the connections I could reach to see if cleaning those would result in a easy repair. Unfortunately, no luck.
When I look at the information the Brammo gives me, some things catches the eye: the min/max voltage of the cells seem very good to my inexperienced eye: Max 3.985 Min 3.941. However the temperature seems odd. -24degrees... See attached pic.. Also I looked at the LED's of each module. They blink kinda weird. A lot of green flashes, but also occasionally red. Looks like an error code, but there does not seem to be a constant flashing order. I made a video.. see: https://youtube.com/shorts/PIOCQMePJf0 (https://youtube.com/shorts/PIOCQMePJf0)
I already have read a lot of topics here about the B40 error. My summarization of all that info is: the BMS is in idle mode. The BMS info is transfered through the CAN-bus which is mounted on circuit boards inside the battery modules. Battery Module 5 is most prone to give malfunctions since its one of the 3 lower modules and mounted upside down. Here fluids (from battery pouches or water) can get pile up and damage the PCB.
My questions:
What are the flashing LED's on the battery modules showing?
Can the -24 temperature reading be a result of a faulty PCB of one of the modules?
Can the -24 temperature reading cause the B40 error?
If above no questions are 'yes' does this give hope by fixing the issue to simply fixing the faulty temperature sensor? Or should I see this B40 error more like smoke-screen where all sorts of things happen but cannot be trusted?
Last question: if things go south i'm not reluctant to start replacing cell's or the complete battery modules. I read the information of the member 'boxerpower' in Spain. That looks promising. Are there any other know rebuilds?
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Hello Haplo
Can you download the ride files off the usb under the seat?
There are posts on the forum to help with that. Then we can start to diagnose the issue.
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http://www.environ-systems.com/brammo-empulse-r.html
Here is the link to the log file converter. also lots of other good info that this member still has active
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Hi Korbin,.. Thanks for the link. I didn't found that one yet. I already found the USB stick in the Brammo. Will download the files and upload them here.
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Hi Bert, to answer your questions. Yes, if the board relays temperature readings to the microprocessor in that module outside the parameters the B40 fault is displayed. A recent .drv or .chg file from the data logger will reveal the module at fault as they contain alot of information. Data is recorded every 5 seconds.
Once opened, the file is saved as an Excel file for easy viewing.
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I'm having the same issues with my bike 48
I bought bike 121 new in 17 and sold it back to polaris with the buyback program and regretted it. So when this 48 popped up on marketplaces I scooped it up.
Not new to ev by any means. I worked at 3 startup ev companies and am very familiar with. Sevcon and drive wizard. Have the software and the IXXXAT ADAPTOR that i program our size 4 sevcons with and know all the sevcon pinouts etc.
but this b40 has been the death of both these bikes.
I got the packs pulled. And trying to get guidance to what to do here.
So many question here. 🤔
I'm allready trickling the pack back up as they were sitting low. Bottom was at 42.25
Havnt touched top pack yet. One at a time.
First can someone sell me the diagnostic cable for the bms?
Also definitely not my first rodeo building batteries or configuration of sevcons and bms's. Just never mess with such and intergrated system and pouch cells. I know the sevcon can run independently so if I could actually log into the sevcon or trick the forwatd or safty switches in the someware I may just be able to build a new battery pack for it.
Well any help would be greatly appreciated as I really loved my 121 bike and would love to bring this 48 back to life.
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Hi acceler. Where are you located? I just reached out to a guy who may have the cable you need. I thought he might have gotten rid of it, but I just asked him. I'll let you know.
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Austin texas
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Thanks. I'll let you know if I hear anything.
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So, he doesn't have the cord anymore - sold it to the guy who bought his Empulse a few years ago. He said that the cord only worked if you had the software and even then, you'd need some documents that he never had.
Sorry, friend.
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Are you looking for a cable to plug into the battery pack for BMS diagnostic?
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Yes.
I've got batteries and sevcon experience just not fimualar with this brammo platform.
I need to be able to do diagnostics on the packs. Bought bike 48 and it only has 1400 miles on it.
Had bike 121 back in 2017to2019 and had the same b40 code.
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Too bad to hear you have the same issue aswell Acceler. And twice now if I understand correctly.. Feel bad for you. But good to have you here and seeing you are no newby to EV's.. There seem to be a lot of knowledge and experience gathering. We should be able to get somehwere.
I however got nowhere with the Log File Converter.. I downloaded the program OK, but it does not run. It gives the error that it misses some DLL file. Tried it on my win10 64x PC and my Win8 tablet. Both same error.
But I downloaded the files from the bike. I think I found the ones of the last succesfull ride, the charge after that and the ride that first gave the B40 i'm having now. Maybe someone else can convert it to CSV? I'm very curious what to find!
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Yup 2nd empulse.
First one I bought new in2017 bike 121. Got 2 amazing years out of it then the dreaded b40 code of death after I washed it. Polaris bought it back for full price so i let it go. Then really missed it. Just found this one on marketplace 2 weeks ago and bought it. Back when 121 died I was working at a high end electric scooter company that also service the gem golf carts so I got some experience with the sevcon software. The empulse uses a size 6 but we had the size 4 in our scoots. Still program the same. I just recently built an electric ruckus with a size 4 and did my our custom tune. I can tell you that it doesn't take much to make rhe sevcon stand alone. As long as victory hasn't password protected it. Or intergraded the can communication into thier vcu. But I havnt try to log into it yet. Worst case I can build another batteries as that what I do now anyways. But would still prefer to fix the brammo packs since everything will work correctly instead of rewiring and reconfigure everything.
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Man I really do hate the fule Size limited on these outdated forum platforms.
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Man I really do hate the fule Size limited on these outdated forum platforms.
Lol... I guess you get what you pay for. :D
I was recently considering whether I should shut the forum down because it has been pretty quiet here for several weeks. I'm glad it's still running so we can try to help folks.
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I'm just joking. Lol
I was on this back in like 2018ish when my first elpulse went all b40 on me. It's a wealth of knowledge. I'm really glad it was still up and active.
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Hi, I've opened the files. Had some dificulty posting due to size, so here is an extract. Modules 4 and 7 are the troubled ones. Humidity at 100 per cent with the rest at about 50 per cent.
Hope this posts.
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The reason for the B9 and the B40 is the RH gap is greater than 30 per cent. Also module 4 PCB temp is to low/different to the others and this will also flag a fault. The two are likely to be related to damage on the pcb, only inspection will resolve this I suspect. Hope this helps.
ps I use the Victory software on Win 10 64bit to open the files.
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So I got the usb downloaded but all I see is drv and chg files.
Can someone read these and help me with me figure out what pack is faulty
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Hello, I had to unzip archive-8c05.zip and start to get the program working!
hope this helps,
greeting,gerry
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Hi, I've opened the files. Had some dificulty posting due to size, so here is an extract. Modules 4 and 7 are the troubled ones. Humidity at 100 per cent with the rest at about 50 per cent.
Hope this posts.
Hi,.. thanks for opening my files, analysing them and sharing it... I took a look, but could it be that youre mistaken and actually mean Modules 4 and 6 are the troubled ones? See screenshot?
Also: can you share the program with which you are converting the files? I understand your CSV is just an extract. I would like to look at the full data. It seems to also help Acceler, who has also downloaded his (or her??) files but can't convert them.. Thanks!
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Hi, yes modules 4 and 6. It was late and that was my third attempt to post the information. I will add more files.
In general, the Brammo programs ( motor alignment, battery module program and motorcycle diagnosis) and the file opening program need to be run on a Windows xp machine in 32bit.
I'm happy to open the files. For my use I save the files as Excel files and not csv files as this keeps the formatting eg. column widths and I freeze the top line so I always have the headers.
Diagrams for the two Brammo Empulse service cables are on this forum. Motorcycle diagnosis requires the ixxat interface. Battery diagnosis requires a FTDI FT232RL USB to RS485 Converter. I have updated firmware in the modules.
Victory software can be found on the Polaris website. I'm not good a posting live links. Others are.
Happy to help.
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Hi, the files above are complete. I just selected some of the smaller ones.
Module 4 is the one in clear trouble. The low temperature reading brings on all the battery heaters and the temperature difference between that and the others sets the fault code. The Empulse service manual shows how to remove each module.
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Just the last few files off the USB
Can someone do anything with those?
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Hi acceler, I've attached the .drv file you posted. The .chg files were sadly to small, something the same or larger than the .drv file would be great.
Looking at the .drv file (posted in full below) I can see communication has been lost with module 7. In the 'module exists' column 7 is not there!! Some data is missing from 5,6 and 7 but as they are linked this will be a symptom. Module charge level is only 18 per cent ish.
Let me know your thoughts.
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I got the bottom pack pulled already. I'm guessing packs 5,6 and 7 are in the bottom?
Been trickle charging it back up at .5 amps. Already got it up from 42.25v to 44.v that's how we "save" our scooter and ebike 1860 cell packs when they "go to sleep".
I've posted some bigger files also one from January. Which is when I'm guessing the last time the bike actually ran but idk 🤷♂️.
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Hi acceler, I've looked at your file from January and it does have errors sadly. I will post it once my laptop is available.
Module 7 has no relative humidity value, hence the B9 code. Also the real time clock was showing a V78 error although the file is date and time stamped. So maybe rtc battery low.
All cell voltages and temperatures look good.
I don't think there's anything else to be found in the files. Disassembly is the only way forward I believe. Check the cells and circuit board.
Sounds as if you agree and are making progress.
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Happy to help.
Your help is very much appreciated, EV Promise!
I took Module 4 apart as you suggested. However, couldn't find much damage there. It was moisty, sure! So that was not OK of course, but apart it didn't look bad at all. The bolts connecting the PCB to the cells were corroded and there was some wear visible around the pouch-connections. Also some rust on the PCB around the BUS connectors. I will post some pictures.
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And some more pictures:
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And some more pictures:
And the last few pictures and the question what to do next? I haven't taken a closer look the CSV files. Should I examine those deeper to search for some clue there? Or is the conclusion that the temp-sensor on the PCB of Module 4 is bad and should be replaced? Where is the temp-sensor located and have anyone replaced that one before?
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Happy to help.
Your help is very much appreciated, EV Promise!
I took Module 4 apart as you suggested. However, couldn't find much damage there. It was moisty, sure! So that was not OK of course, but apart from that it didn't look bad at all. The bolts connecting the PCB to the cells were corroded and there was some dirt/corrosion visible around the pouch-connections. Also some rust on the PCB around the BUS connectors. I will post some pictures.
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Found some corrosion in mine. Going to clean everything up tomorrow.
For now I'm trickle charging the modules up to 16v
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More pics
Can I use a toothbrush and electric motor cleaner to clear the corrosion?
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Balancing the modules while its open since bike was stitting at 12% for the pass year dead. They started at 14.08v
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Hi Haplo, I'm pleased you've not found anything serious. Module 4 being at the top and the right way up helps I imagine. Hopefully cleaning will sort the issue as 'pcba temperature' on module 4 is the only difference. (As relative humidity is referenced to temperature that can be ignored I believe)
What circuit board revision do you have please? Somewhere between A and G I believe.
Have you found any corrosion likely to cause issues?
Don't wet u14 which I believe is the sensor for relative humidity.
Also Chech ptc1 just near j9 (male connector) as I think this is temperature sensor.
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DeoxIT should be safe to use on the corrosion right????
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Balancing the modules while its open since bike was stitting at 12% for the pass year dead. They started at 14.08v
Nice setup Acceler! Looking like a pro! Hope it helps bringing it back to life. Any news?
@EV Promise.. I examined the board with my collegues of the Electronics department (just 2 desks away.. :) ), and they believe U38 to be the temperature sensor. I intend to open up another module so I can compare the measurements of that component. Lets see what it brings me.
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Hello Bert, I see where U38 is on your photos. It makes sense to be there. It's clear Brammo rapidly developed the boards. I don't have any images of A spec boards but B spec ones have a relay on them and U33 to U38 are missing. D spec boards like yours and I imagine mine and later boards for Victory bikes move on further.
Good to have someone along the corridor to cast an eye on things. Keep moving forward.
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Balancing the modules while its open since bike was stitting at 12% for the pass year dead. They started at 14.08v
Hi acceler,
when I look at the photo of you balancing the battery cells that are removed from the package, I have one important note:
When you charge the cells from 12 to 100%, they will increase their volume a lot and it will be difficult to put them back in the outer packaging. You'll have to clamp them down like Corbin did. A better option is to discharge the cells after balancing them again to reduce their volume, put them in the package and then charge them again.
It is also very important for this type and chemistry of cells that they have no possibility of movement in the package. Otherwise, cell casing leaks around the electrodes, which is the cause of chemical leakage.
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I stopped at 15v when I noticed the swelling. All my experience is with 1860 cells. I've made many packs with those so I did not realize these pouch cells expand so much. The end caps are ratchet strapped. But I did notice it. I'm not going to open the top pack to trickle it. Hopefully just getting the corrosion off these bottom bms boards will be enough to clear the alarm. I ordered some DeoxIT cleaner that come in tomorrow so I'm going to attempt the cleaning this weekend. Looks like there alot of corrosion under the 2 outside packs between the bms and Batts.
Has anyone got into the sevcon on a victory? We use sevcon size 4 on our vehicles. There not much to make them "run" just a few grounds "switches" like seat safety, forward, and 2 pins for modes 3 wires for a throttle and 2 for the contactor. Basically about 12 wires to run a sevcon.
My backup plan would be to build a new pack with 1860s since I got thousands of them here in my garage. Lol our bricks are already 15v nominal just like the brammo and run the ant bms that I also have a bunch of. Problem is I would need to just bypass the vcu and trick the sevcon, charger to come on. But on the high side the sevcon can take 144v so if I can log in then I could adjust torque curves, rpm, etc. Pin 13 and 25 is can h and can l. And I got the sevcon software and ixxat adaptor. I make all my own tunes for our scoot and ev's.
Not new to EVs by any means. Just simplier setups that are not so integrated. And this is my first time messing with pouch cells.
Oh also not my first victory empulse. Lol. I had bike 121 new and absolutely 💯 loved it but had this same b40 code back in like 2019 but Polaris bought it back. Missed it so much that when this bike 48 popped up on marketplace I snatched it up quick to try to revive it.
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Hi acceler , just checking. Do you intend to remove the PCB from module 7 position and check the reverse?
On Victory bikes in the past leakage appears to dissolved some of the tracks on the back as they're upsidedown.
I can tell you're thinking about this.
Would you be able to replace the pouches with 18650's, keeping the current circuit board connections to simplify the change and if so how many mAh do you think this would give compared to the current level which I believe is 9000mAh. 10000mAh on a Victory as they have one more cell in each row.
Thanks
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I haven't removed the boards yet. I was waiting for the cleaner to come in tomorrow. So should I NOT remove the boards? I believe you were the person that help me read the file that said mod 7 wasn't responding. And I can see the corrosion under the boards at 5 and 7.
I was just thinking about the 1865 cell because I got so many of them. And that's what I'm familiar with. Only reason. My 48v custom ebike bricks with thier bms are almost exactly the same size as the brammo stacks. Ours are 35ah so 3 in the bottom pack would be almost the same 105ah at 48v nom 50.8v full. I make 48v 60v and 72v for ebikes and scooters. So top pack would need better configuration of the bricks but I could fit 105ah at 60v nom 67 full. With thier own bms units and I think I could fit it all it the brammo cases. That's ONLY a last resort idea. As I would still need to get the sevcon to go to forward mode. And would probably lose all dash functionality and possibilities the onboard charger.
I really just hope I can fix it back to stock. I'm just bounce ideas around as I look at 30+ batteries lined up in my garage and 6 other ev bikes I got in here. 😆 🤣
The picture is deceiving because the 1865 pack is sitting on top of my power supply. But they do measure about the same with the bms as the individual brammo modules.
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Hi acceler, I do think you should remove board 7 and inspect the reverse looking for damaged tracks or other issues preventing communication making sure you do it safely.
The B40 code appears to set based on temperature or humidity errors, so around or under U14 and U38 which is next to it. You'll have to see what you find.
As the communication between boards 5,6 and 7 is internal on a Victory Empulse and you can see corrosion on board 5 you may need to make a decision on that too.
Korbin was successful and we hope you will be also. Take care.
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OK pulled the board and already found what may be the problem. This was just the first board pulled. Screws all should probably be replaced and I may have some bad traces right under where the connector is on the board.
And yup the cell are definitely swelling. 😆 I'm gonna clamp them back down and put the on the load bank to discharge them a bit.
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Hi acceler, I'm pleased you've found the cause of the data loss though sad at the same time and thank you for the image.
Was that board from module 7?
I hope you find no more damage and this can be rectified.
I was going to add to my earlier post that you might want to check the data connection area/ cable between boards 6 and 7 however that's answered now.
Thanks for keeping us updated.
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It was on the positive side of the battery. Hope that was module 7. But tomorrow I'm going to pull the other 2 boards and start cleaning everything and replace the screws with new stainless screws.
Does anyone have a replacement victory board? I may have a guy that can repair it but IDK how bad it is till I get it cleaned up.
Thanks for all your help. I really loved my bike 121. And regretted selling it back to Polaris. So for me to find this bike 48 just 15 minutes from my house and as cheap as I did was like a blessing.
I love EVs (i got a cake kalk, a suron, an some ebikes)and am so excited to see this piece of history ride again. Hopefully I can get this board fixed or replaced and be riding soon. Only has 1400 miles on the bike. It's it perfect shape too.
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pm sent
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Good news. The Brammo is back to live again!
The plan for today was to measure the difference between the U38 temperature component of a correct measuring PCB to the PCB of Module 4 which has been giving faulty readings. For this I had to reassemble Module 4 and put it back into the bike, since I have no other means to power it and check it. I cleaned all the contacts very thoroughly and used nice clean fasteners to mount the PCB back on the module. Then I opened up module 3 to act as the cross-reference. Was feeling a bit bad about that, cause module 3 seemed to be sealed right and function right. However, I had 2 modules to reseal anyway (Modules 4 and 6 are leaking) so having a third didn't make that much of a difference, right..? It was nice to see Module 3 indeed was completely dry inside. No signs of moisture at all. All fittings as new and the paper inside also completely dry. Nice to see!!
After reinstalling the M4 back into the bike things turned out differently than expected. With the multimeter ready to go I switched ignition on but before starting measuring U38 I thought... Lets first see if the error returns,... And it didnt.. :) It actually came back to life already... See: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/AR6yiKgjXIk (https://www.youtube.com/shorts/AR6yiKgjXIk) Of course i'm very happy with that! But also feels weirdly unstatisfying.. It doesn't feel I actually repaired anything..
Ah well.. It lives!
But I still had work to do on module 6, which was still unopened in the bike. So dismantled the controller and took out Module 5 after taking out Module 6. I set aside Module 5 since it doesn't have any error codes and so hopefully will be as nice inside as Module3. Module 6 however was bad inside. A lot of water there. I set it onto a tissue to make it visible. I was worried that the PCB might also be affected since this Module is upside-down in the bike with the PCB now in the bottom part of the module. But luckily the PCB seems to sits just high enough up from the actual bottom to not have been reached by the water level. So the PCB is looking OK.
So with the bike working again and the 2 faulty modules up for drying whats left is to reseal the modules. Although I see that Brammo actually really did their best and took a lot of effort and good steps to seal these modules, it clearly wasn't enough. Right now I think I will try to do a better job by using a lot of silicon-sealer, but not entirly sure this is going to be enough. The surfaces, materials and forms of the module just aren't that suitable for a completely waterthight seal to my opinion. Any idea's or suggestions to seal the modules are very welcome!
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And some more pictures of Module 6. A lot of moisture there.. Well,.. Moisture? Hmm.. thats putting it a bit too lightly. There was just a puddle of water there.. :(
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Ah... and I would really to analyse the new data. I would like to take a look at the readings of Module 4 with the bike working again. Are the readings of moisture and temperature in this module back to normal? Also the B9 error should be because Module 6 was still unopened at that time. @EV Promise. Can you convert the files attached?
And although I'm very happy with your service of converting, EV Promise, I would also like to be able to do it myself. When I have the bike back on the road, reading the log, now and then seems to be a good way to keep checking the health of the modules as stuff. Can someone help me installing software to convert the files?
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Hello Bert, I've converted and uploaded the files below. You are correct, only the relative humidity value in module 6 is preventing a clean sweep of really good values.
To look at the files yourself you need the "bikelogstoexcel" program from this forum. There is a link to.the website .It's a zip that creates an exe file and another smaller file. It runs on my win10 64bit laptop. You run it and then select the .drv or .chg file you want to convert. Then you need Excel to open the .csv file.
Hope that helps and I'm pleased your bike is running.
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As module 6 is so wet i thought I would add the data sheet below for a Honeywell sensor in case you feel the need to replace it. You'll have to make a judgment if it's the right one. It's definitely made by Honeywell, tiny writing on it and correct size.
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As module 6 is so wet i thought I would add the data sheet below for a Honeywell sensor in case you feel the need to replace it. You'll have to make a judgment if it's the right one. It's definitely made by Honeywell, tiny writing on it and correct size.
THanks for your help again, EV Promise! Hmm.. I indeed see humidity it's still at 100% in the LOG, but actually think that is correct. I didn't open up Module 6 just yet when the LOG file was made. And since I found puddles of water inside Module 6, i'd expect the sensor will be right. But we will know soon enough, cause the module is open now and drying.
I'm actually really anxious to assemble the whole bike and start riding again! But I know it would be foolish to do so without taking serious care to seal those modules. Rainy season is about to enter here, and I really didn't by this bike to only ride it in dry conditions. Hell,.. Dry conditions in NL? Are you kidding! We invented the word 'rain' around here and have about a trillions words for it,.. There are even youtube video's made about that: https://youtu.be/Ys-KP8oPdvg?si=GTPRllW9zStPRVSP&t=41 (https://youtu.be/Ys-KP8oPdvg?si=GTPRllW9zStPRVSP&t=41).. Pretty funny.. :) :) :)
So I really want to make the Brammo weather-proof.. :D
About the conversion programm.. I did download the converter, but I get an error: see picture in attachment: missing cvirte.dll or something... Also running Win10x46. Any suggestions?
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I see that. That file comes with the ixxat software. You don't need the ixxat hardware but you do need to download VCI 2.20 software from the ixxat website. The file is from a LabVIEW program that is parf of the suite. Hopefully that will fix it.
Quite the water line. Front mudguard is useless, I fear for the head bearing but maybe I should be worried about the modules. Done 10k km in 3 years on mine. Bought it from Germany. Had 10k on then.
I've downloaded my data stick and all is well though module 6 on mine has 73 per cent humidity and the rest 55.
Rains here a lot too....... though fine and warm today in Lincolnshire. Take care
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Great news haplo!
It's so unfortunate that they weren't able to truly waterproof the modules. So many problems because of this oversight.
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I see that. That file comes with the ixxat software. You don't need the ixxat hardware but you do need to download VCI 2.20 software from the ixxat website. The file is from a LabVIEW program that is parf of the suite. Hopefully that will fix it.
Quite the water line. Front mudguard is useless, I fear for the head bearing but maybe I should be worried about the modules. Done 10k km in 3 years on mine. Bought it from Germany. Had 10k on then.
I've downloaded my data stick and all is well though module 6 on mine has 73 per cent humidity and the rest 55.
Rains here a lot too....... though fine and warm today in Lincolnshire. Take care
Got the converter working.. Thanks EV Promise! Downloading VCI 2.20 did not do the trick, instead google suggested to download this: https://www.ni.com/en/support/downloads/software-products/download.labwindows-cvi.html#353603 (https://www.ni.com/en/support/downloads/software-products/download.labwindows-cvi.html#353603)
Don't know what it is exactly, but seems like LabVIEW. I unchecked as many boxes as I could for the install, but it was pretty hefty anyway. I assume there can be a easier way to do it, but this worked.
I'm not so worried about the head bearing. I haven't given it any close looks to be honest, but as far as I looked at it, the construction doesn't seem any different from any other bike I know. Or are you specifically worried bout your own ones, EV Promise?
And yeah.. in the UK it rains a lot aswell.. Maybe even more than in NL.. :)
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I'm pleased the program runs. An armchair pastime for rainy days!
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Great news haplo!
It's so unfortunate that they weren't able to truly waterproof the modules. So many problems because of this oversight.
Thanks Brammofan! I'm very happy aswell! I will keep you updated in the re-sealing of the modules.
@Acceler.. So cleaning stuff did make a difference with mine PCB's.. How were your results over the weekend?
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It cleaned the corrosion but unfortunately a few traces were broken. So I ether got to repair or replace the board.
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Well this just randomly happen. Haven't touched the battery in over 2 weeks since My last post. And today suddenly I smell smoke and the dam bms was on fire. Thank God I was home and it was on a cart and I was able to roll it out of the garage and disconnect it.
IDK 🤷♂️ what the he'll happen or why 2 weeks later it suddenly did this but now I'm screwed.
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And another
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And more pics
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Oh crap. Never seen that before. Thank goodness you got it out of the garage.
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That is scary ! Was it on a charger at the time?
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Nope. Haven't touch it in over 2 weeks. I was out of town till yesterday. Nothing connected to it.
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That was not the battery that had the swollen cells? The top was off and the bms was still screwed to the battery? Could something have fallen on top of it and shorted it out? Trying to wrap my head around how that could have happened.
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seems like it started with the heaters of the pouch cells? was the bettery connected to the motorcycle? or was it standalone in the cart?
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The battery was on the cart. Module 7 was disconnected as well as the board on 7 removed. It does appear the heat wires were all burned up. I've since removed the other board so now it just 3 pouch packs but not really sure now if the pouch popped, bms randomly went crazy or something else. Nothing touched it. So whatever happened it was the pack itself that caused it. Ether way I think at this point it beyond saving. I'm ether going the pull the top pack today and think about selling what left of the 2 packs and recovering the bike. Or completely pulling the driveline out and use it in another project and sell the remaining empulse parts. I did work at two 2 EV companies and am firmiluar with sevcon and have access to drivewizard so to "tweek a dcf file is easy enough for me. It I choose to repower or transplant it.
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Too bad to read about your fire, Accler! But very happy it did not got any worst than it did. Could have turned out much worse I guess.. Makes me wonder if charging the Brammo in the shed which is build in between my house and my neigbours is a good idea. If things go bad, 2 houses will go up in flames.. :(
However, my Brammo is back on the road. Commuted with it this week. Through rain and storm. Lets see if my battery-pack's stay dry.
To get you all up to speed since I left you: the Brammo was back to live, all I had to do was re-seal the modules and re-assemble it all. I spent some day's thinking about how to re-seal those modules. I think the whole construction and seal is pretty bad. So my ideas ranged from completely rebuilding the module-tray's to completely cover the PCB's by pouring them into liquid silicon. In the end I decided to keep things simple and just re-assemble the modules, but adding silicon-sealant to the joining-surfaces as best as I can.
Re-assembling the Brammo took more time than expected. Man, it's not very efficiently assembled toghether. All those different panels and sheet metal parts... Pff.. very time-consuming. A lot different from all the other bikes I ever worked on. But hey.. it's back together. The ride last day's were nice. The weather is appalling, but for the module-seal-test that's just what I need. After each ride I take out the USB-stick and I've automated the read-out process. So I can easily track for new moisture in the modules when it happens..
Just a new question: doing all the work and looking at all different settings and stuff, I accidently changed my Brammo from kilometers to miles. How do I switch it back??
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https://brammoforum.com/index.php?topic=4229.msg29687#msg29687
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that is great news Haplo. Thank you for the update. there was a post on the forum about changing from kph to mph
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Great news!
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Thanks for cheering and for the suggestion how to switch back to Kilometers.. However I can't try it. After one week of happy riding it died today when trying to charge it.. The irony.. :( See: https://brammoforum.com/index.php?topic=4353.0 (https://brammoforum.com/index.php?topic=4353.0)