Brammo Owners Forum

I've done a few posts on my various projects over the winter.  Above is the result coming in at 440.4 lbf, 222 front 218.4 rear.

The significant mods are removing the charger and accessories, adding a 2nd liquid cooling circuit for the controller, woodcraft racing rearsets, woodcraft clipons, headlight delete, and a 36T rear sprocket, auxiliary 12v supply and option to power thr cooling circuits from AC lines.  Additionally I went around and did some "right sizing" of fasteners.  Besides that everything else is to meet ARHMA's rules and regs.

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Anybody know if the 17x4.5 TT rear wheel is compatible with the Empulse R's cuz handling/weight savings?  I did a quick search and didn't see anyone talking about it yet. 350$ for the oem part vs some thousands for the fancy race ones from marchesini.

Also I think victory needs to fix their dwg/naming convention on their service page .



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So I started on my off board charging conversion.  Here is how to take everything off:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_7qDPmyZEEuRWJPUkJVUVJLVjg/view?usp=sharing

Once I get all my pictures together I will put the reassembly ppt back up. It did go back together I swear :-)

Headed down to Florida to get a bit of practice in for next year's Emoto Racing serries.  While I was down there I was validating some changes/tricks for a more better electric track experience.

Woodcraft racing rearsets:
Finally said goodbye to grinding hardparts.  600$ is hard to swallow for a set of pegs but they definitely work.  In conjunction with this I switched to GP shift as well.  I'm still getting used to it but I think it's think it's the way to go for a track only bike.

Air conditioning:
I brought a window ac unit to help keep things cool and maximize my charging.  Also chilled the bike before the mock race.  If you do one thing at the track do this!  It makes your batteries happy in the heat.

With all my other changes I decided not to swap rear sprockets as I was only hitting 100 on the back straight.  I'll have to try out one of the tracks up north in the spring to see if the 36T will let me beat 113 which I hit at grattan.


Over all great weekend hanging out with Arthur and Kyle who's electric R6 is a really well built bike.  I got a chance to take a few laps on it and hit 107 (vs my 100) so my opinion is that it is faster than a stockish brammo.  The icing on the cake was the mock race which I didn't lose!!!

I wanted to start this off with my Empulse averaged 29mpg this weekend!  *insert plug for tracks to have proper infastructure here.*

Overall good weekend, first time at Grattan with SBTT.  It was super slippery in the morning due to COLD and some brand spanking new pavement in turns 2 and 3 but a very technical track and lots of fun.  Once the track started warming up and speeds picked up ground clearance became an issue again with the pegs.  I want to look into the woodcraft rearsets and see if there is some way to make a kickstand feasible.   

One of the nice things about it being cold was the batteries stayed cool, I only had regen cut out towards the end of the days and was able to charge at full power for most of the day.  Considering doing a battery cooler with a window ac unit for charging (I think I saw Arthur with one at some point???)

Anyways, saw 113 indicated on the straight my draw per 20 min session was anywhere between 30 and 55% depending on if I went hard on the straight or not or if there was a flag. I would get about 15% back between sessions (yes I skipped some) and ended up getting 165.2 miles in on the weekend.

Upgrade list for the off season:
Got to 40T sprocket
Build a battery cooler
Rearsets

I've been sitting on this for a bit but I've decided to post it so here we go.

To start off, doing stuff below will void your warranty with extreme prejudice so I cannot recommend  anyone ever do this.   NOTE: per the warranty conditions:

“Any products tampered with, modified, adjusted, or repaired by any unauthorized party, including the owner;” will void the warranty.

 Now that that is over with let’s get on to the fun stuff.

How To: Communicate with your Brammo (via CAN).

You are going to need a couple of things, the relatively cheap connectors are below, the really expensive stuff is at the end of the list 

The can connectors are located behind the front mud guard (directly behind the front wheel) on the right side next to the coolant pressure cap.  There 2 connectors that come with a water sealed male attached for environmental protection.  Make sure you reinstall these before you ride the bike.  If you want to make a connector the following parts will be needed:

Delphi Metri Pack 3P male
 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12129615/?qs=xyz6lfZ1ktKpe6eMONntKQ%3D%3D

lock
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=xyz6lfZ1ktIroM5KljafsA%3d%3d

seals
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=xyz6lfZ1ktIUGpWRLcAk%252bg%3d%3d

male pins
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=DlE0rdXB%2fL2cvGLUNFIpnA%3d%3d

Now for the expensive stuff.  Sevcon Gen4’s are designed to work with IXXAT Can-to-USB.  You could plug a different can dongle into the bus and be able to see the signals but without the software (DVT) and the appropriate dongle there would be a lot more work involved to actually do anything.
http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/sevcon-gen4-pc-based-programming-kit.html

Also you'll want a DB9 breakout board for wiring

Communication can also be established by stripping about 1CM of wire and sticking it in each of the connections.  I used solid core 22AWG wire.  This worked before my connectors came in but having the connector is much nicer.

The pinouts on the bike side are as follows:

M/C connector:
Blue wire is GND
Green wire is CAN L
Yellow wire is CAN H

Display connector:
Black wire is GND
Green wire is CAN L
Yellow wire is CAN H

M/C is 100kbaud and display is 500kbaud. DO NOT EVER connect the two, they're not isolated! No termination resistors are necessary as the bus is already internally terminated.

Using the IXXAT USB-to-CAN compact with driver V 3.5 the pinout is as follows on the 9 pin Sub-D connector :

Pin/signal
1/-
2/CAN-Low
3/GND
4/-
5/-
6/-
7/CAN-High
8/-
9/-

So that is all of the connection stuff.  To initiate communication you can do the following:

Power up order: using DVT
1)   Everything off

2)   Make the connection between the Delphi plug and the IXXAT dongle

3)   Plug the dongle into your computer

4)   Power up the bike (suggest using a rear stand for validation however kickstand switch will not keep the Sevcon from enabling) you must both Key on and “start” the bike, having it in its running condition to turn on the Sevcon.

5)   launch DVT

For reference check out the following:

[url=https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/images/DVT%20Tutorial.pdf]https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/images/DVT%20Tutorial.pdf[/url]


I'll be interested to here what people think of this, love it, hate it, why would you ever post this?