2012 Zeros rolling off the assembly line

[Richard230]

Last night I received a call from my local Zero dealer, Mission Motorcycles in Daly City, CA, located about a 15-minute ride from my home.  The shop owner told me that they had just received a new 2012 Zero DS model and it would be on the showroom floor today.

So I visited Mission Motorcycles this morning and checked out the new 2012 Zero DS.  All I did was to sit on and inspect it.  I was offered a test ride, but declined as traffic in the area is kind of crazy and I don't really like to ride anyone else's bike, especially the only one of its type in the shop.

Anyway, the DS model that they had in the shop was very much blacked-out, too much so for my taste. It really needs some "bold new graphics" to liven it up a bit. The seat on this model is very high and I could not reach the floor with my 30" inseam. Also the seat felt very hard and had a hard, but durable-looking, rubber-like covering.  The mirrors were not positioned very well and should be higher and wider.  The front brake looked kind of wimpy, but perhaps that is typical for an off-road bike.  The rear shock also looked smaller and less robust than I am used to, but then most of my IC motorcycles weigh a lot more than the DS.

I liked the instrument cluster and gauges, they are neat, compact and readable. The motor looked very much "Mars-like" and I didn't see any sort of forced-air cooling system, other than the slots in the motor through which you can see the motor windings.  There is a very large heat-sink under the seat, which I assume houses the controller.  The drive belt is quite thin, much thinner than any motorcycle drive belt that I have ever seen. (I have seen the ones on Harleys, BMWs, Buells, and it is thinner even than the belt on the 1983 Kawasaki GPz 305 that I used to own.)

I suspect that the Brammo Empulse (not sure about the Enertia Plus) will outperform the Zero when it finally arrives and it will certainly look better. But I give credit to Zero for getting their new models into production and out to their dealers ahead of their announced schedule. That is certainly a change from previous model years.

[Shinysideup]

Hey Richard - Ya beat me to it!

I went to Mission Motorcycles today to get some oil for my TMax (pretty soon, I won't need oil!) and saw Teresa working on the the new DS. It definitely caught my eye. This one came off the assembly line yesterday and they got it last night. Probably the first one in the country. Another batch is heading to Europe.

I actually liked the all black look with the gold front shocks, though a color accent somewhere might also work. I thought the 2010 graphics were too cluttered looking.

I commented on the plastic venting panel at the lower front of the battery box and noted that it didn't really do anything and that more air would reach the fins under the battery box if it were removed. She said she thought they put it there so the machine would look more like a conventional ICE bike because any design too radical turned customers off. Personally, I dislike moto design that is not functional; major points for the Empulse.

I too was struck with how thin the belt looked and how skinny the seat was. I guess off road guys/gals spend a lot of time on the pegs.

She said the brakes were improved over the 2010 offering, which I found a bit wimpy on my test ride a couple of weeks ago.

She offered me a test ride, but I told her I'd hold out for the S model, since that's what I'd be interested in purchasing.

I also told her this one looked good enough for me to have to exercise a lot of discipline in waiting for the Empulse. She smiled.

[Richard230]

She told me that the "S" would be arriving in about two or three weeks.

I asked if she had a brochure and was told that it was on a thumb drive. I was expecting that and brought along my own thumb drive.  When I got home and stuck the drive into my computer, it turned out not to be a brochure, but an entire 110-page Owners manual for the DS and S models.  I am currently printing out the manual for my reading pleasure.

PM me with your email address and I'll send you a copy, if you want one (assuming that Firefox will let me upload a 3.5 MB file in one gulp, without getting the usual "attachment failed" message).

[protomech]

I'm pretty excited - I think 2012 is going to be a real turning point for the EV industry in general : )

I really consider both the 2012 Zeros and the Empulse to be second generation production EVs. New powertrain, new batteries. (Enertia Plus is sort of a version 1.5 - same frame and design, new batteries). Significant increases in range and performance. Different approaches, which is great. Tesla's 2012 Model S is a second generation EV car.

What I find really interesting is that these second generation EVs from the new industry players will be going up against shipping or shipping-soon first generation EVs from the established industry players. Nissan Leaf, Mitsubishi i, Ford Focus EV, Honda Fit EV. Chevy Volt and Toyota Prius Plug-in, but they're different creatures. Toyota RAV4 EV, though that will be so limited production that it's barely worth mentioning. On the two-wheel front we have the KTM Freeride E and Honda's EV Neo, though IMO these are more comparable (in specifications if not build quality and support) to the Zero X of several years ago and some Vectrix models.

Very interesting times to live in for EV fans.

[Richard230]

I finished reading the 110-page 2012 Zero S/DS owners manual last night and here are some items that I found interesting:

The motor is described as a "High efficiency, double-stator axial flux permanent magnet, brushless motor with integrated forced air cooling".

The controller is a "High efficiency, 420 amp, 3-phase brushless controller with re-generative deceleration".

The motor is rated at 12.2 HP.

Estimated top speed (max) is 88 mph, estimated top speed (sustained) is 75 mph.

The batteries are "Z-Force Patented Li-ion Intelligent Power Pack". Nominal capacities are 5.3 kWh and 7.9 kWh. Charge times are 6.0 hours and 9.0 hours (using the on-board 120V/240V charger). The charger is a 1 kW "integrated" device.

Ranges are 76/114 miles per the EPA UDDS cycle and with an estimated 43/63 miles at 70 mph.

Final drive is "28T/132T Sprockets, 8 mm pitch, 200 tooth, 14 mm width, Poly Chain GT Carbon (belt)".

Seat height for the "S" is 32.5" for the ZF6 and 33" for the ZF9. A low seat option drops that height by one inch. For the DS (which is what I sat on), seat height is 35.3 (ZF6) and 34.8 (ZF9) (?).

Weight for both the S and DS is given as 297/341 pounds and GVWR is 637/681 pounds.

Maximum carrying capacity is 340 pounds and at this load the bike can be started on a 13% hill from a dead stop.

The replacement interval for the final drive belt is 12,500 miles.  (Seems kind of short to me.)

This should give you some idea of what to expect from the Enertia Plus and the Empulse, when you compare their final specifications against the Zero 6 kWh and 9 kWh models.

[protomech]

Most of those specs are available on Zero's site.

Zero's 70 mph range is 50% distance at 70 mph, 50% distance at city speeds (UDDS).

I noticed the replacement interval for the belt as well. That does seem rather short.

The manual says that the regenerative braking is automatically applied when you completely roll off the throttle. I had heard it was applied by rolling the throttle in reverse. The bike has an ECO switch which lowers maximum acceleration and increases the regen braking force. It'd be nice to be able to tune what that switch does.

Zero gives some tips for maximizing range:

Example: If 108 km/h (67 mph) can be reached at 100% throttle, 75% throttle will give you about 89-95 km/h (55-59 mph) (a 25% energy savings for an approximate 12% speed loss).

I believe that particular tip is a carryover from the 2011 bikes, which has an actual top speed of about 67 mph. Bearing in mind kW / mph = kWh / mile, 75% power / 88% speed = 85% total energy per mile (or 17% higher range from slowing from 67 to 55-59 mph).

The manual describes an optional J1772 port for the bike. I'm not sure if that's an artifact of the 2011 manual or not. I suspect the lower seat height for the ZF9 DS vs the ZF6 DS is also a typo.

Zero says the power pack should not be used outside the range of -7°C - 71°C (20°F - 160°F). I'm not sure what that translates into as far as ambient temperatures go, but likely 15-20°F ambient would be fine if the bike was garaged and the temperature would increase during the day.

[Shinysideup]

I noticed the replacement interval for the belt as well. That does seem rather short.

Another data point: Manual says my Yamaha TMax drive belt should be changed every 12000 miles. And it's no bargain at $175! Of course it's running in a variator, so it has has to handle very different stresses including plenty of heat.

[FreepZ]

The replacement interval for the final drive belt is 12,500 miles.  (Seems kind of short to me.)

For reference, can anybody tell me how long a chain will last?
I have no idea because I've never changed the chain on any bike (or bicycle) that I've owned. (I got my bike serviced regularly, and my mechanic would have told me if I needed a new chain -- but he never did.)

[Richard230]

Now chains are something that I know about - from the School of Hard Knocks, of course.   

In short, the more expensive the chain, the longer it will last. But the biggest factor in chain life is how many cylinders your IC motorcycle has and if you ride in the dirt and rain.  In my experience, riding only on the road, oiling the chain every 250 miles with a spray chain lube, cleaning the chain every 1000 miles with WD-40 or kerosene, making sure it stays properly adjusted, and using name- brand O- and X-ring chains, you can expect the following:

13K miles on a big single, 18K miles on an 800cc twin and 30-35K miles when used on a 750-1000cc 4-cylinder motorcycle.  So it appears that individual torque pulses may be the biggest factor in chain life, all other things being equal. 

Taking your bike off-road and getting the chain dirty will make short work of it, unless you clean it carefully after each ride. The sand/oil mix on the chain makes a nice grinding paste.

I would expect something like a name-brand 520-size O-ring type chain on an electric motorcycle ridden on the street, to last a very long time, especially if you keep it well lubricated and properly adjusted.  Also note that steel sprockets will last much longer than aluminum sprockets. I have gotten as much as 80,000 miles from the original steel sprockets on my bikes - in spite of the chain/sprocket manufacturers recommending that front and rear sprockets be changed with every chain replacement.

I also might add that you very rarely have to adjust a quality chain until it really starts to wear out. Then you will have to adjust it every few hundred miles. That is when you know it needs to be replaced.

[Shinysideup]

I have gotten as much as 80,000 miles from the original steel sprockets on my bikes - in spite of the chain/sprocket manufacturers recommending that front and rear sprockets be changed with every chain replacement.

Did you notice that chains didn't last as long toward the end of that 80K miles? The rationale I've heard is that worn sprockets make new chains wear faster. But I have little data.

[Richard230]

I have gotten as much as 80,000 miles from the original steel sprockets on my bikes - in spite of the chain/sprocket manufacturers recommending that front and rear sprockets be changed with every chain replacement.

Did you notice that chains didn't last as long toward the end of that 80K miles? The rationale I've heard is that worn sprockets make new chains wear faster. But I have little data.

No, I was watching for any reduction in chain life and didn't notice any.  All you need to do is to inspect your sprockets and if the teeth still look like those on a new sprocket, then why change it?  But if you see the teeth start to look bent at the top, shiny on the sides, or in any way visibly worn, then they should be changed.  But if you keep a steel sprocket well lubed and the chain properly adjusted, they will last a long time and save you the cost to buy new ones and the effort to change them.   

[Brammofan]

The motor looked very much "Mars-like" and I didn't see any sort of forced-air cooling system, other than the slots in the motor through which you can see the motor windings. 

I just noticed this.  Did you have to remove some protection from the bike in order to see the motor, or is it exposed as a matter of course, with the windings visible?

[Richard230]

The motor looked very much "Mars-like" and I didn't see any sort of forced-air cooling system, other than the slots in the motor through which you can see the motor windings. 

I just noticed this.  Did you have to remove some protection from the bike in order to see the motor, or is it exposed as a matter of course, with the windings visible?

I didn't touch a thing.  Those exposed windings really got my attention.  I guess in addition to being "forced" air-cooled, when riding in the rain, the motor would also be water-cooled.  Still, compared with the D&D motor sticking out the side of my GPR-S, that motor is as tight as a drum.   

What really bothers me is that the motor is exposed to anything being thrown off the rear wheel. That thing really needs a cover between it and the rear wheel, sort of like a "hugger" that many install on their sport bikes to keep grunge off of the rear shock. Riding down a dirty wet road could stuff some muck into the windings that you would never get out.  I am not sure I like that.   

Strangely, Zero is supposed to be the dirt-riding specialists and you would think getting dirt into the motor would be something that they would be concerned with.  Maybe it doesn't happen in practice?   

[Brammofan]

I'm no expert, but it seems very odd to have an open frame motor on a road-going (or dirt riding) vehicle. In addition to dust and water, wouldn't the magnets inside of it be sucking in all the ferrous debris stirred up by your tires?

[Richard230]

I'm no expert, but it seems very odd to have an open frame motor on a road-going (or dirt riding) vehicle. In addition to dust and water, wouldn't the magnets inside of it be sucking in all the ferrous debris stirred up by your tires?

I don't even want to think about it.  However, I suspect that is unlikely to happen.  Electric motors have been used in all sorts of nasty industrial environments over the past 100+ years and seem to have been pretty reliable.  I guess they get by somehow.   

I wonder if the motor will suck up nails before they get to the rear tire?   

One other comment that I will make about PM motors, they don't activate traffic signal loops any better than an IC motorcycle does. So you can just forget those wimpy traffic signal activation magnets..  They don't work.