Quick ride report...

[Ain]

I figured I had to share since I spent today "verifying" one of the specs...

At a secret test location that will remain confidential (for the sake of my driving record), I can confirm that the Empulse R will do an indicated 100MPH!   

A couple other notes on riding (it's been slow with the rainy weather):

- On the advice of the guys at Brammo, I've been sticking with power shifting when upshifting.  I had a couple instances of clutch slip when doing hard acceleration during break-in (or maybe motor protection if there was an over-run), but doing the clutchless upshifts works great.

- The range seems to be tracking pretty well to spec (and even being heavy on the throttle, I'm still never getting less than 50-60 miles).

- Handling still continues to impress, it's a blast to ride and the leverage on the upright bars is great..

- I've started playing with "SPORT" mode a bit more, and the biggest difference from "NORMAL" is the regenerative braking being more aggressive.  Fun in the twisties, but in city traffic "NORMAL" seems a bit smoother.


- Ain

[implovator]

Thanks for the update, Ain!

[ttxgpfan]

Like.

[Shinysideup]

I totally agree with Normal's regen being more pleasant in the city.

Do you feel that the clutchless upshifts cause a fairly abrupt "clunk" in the transmission compared to a quick use of the clutch lever? Maybe I'm not as skilled as you in using the throttle precisely when shifting without a clutch, but some of the time, it sounds like I'm treating the transmission a bit harshly when I power shift.

[Ain]

I totally agree with Normal's regen being more pleasant in the city.

Do you feel that the clutchless upshifts cause a fairly abrupt "clunk" in the transmission compared to a quick use of the clutch lever? Maybe I'm not as skilled as you in using the throttle precisely when shifting without a clutch, but some of the time, it sounds like I'm treating the transmission a bit harshly when I power shift.

As long as you time the rolling off the throttle with the up shift, it's pretty smooth.  By rolling off the throttle, you unload the force on the gears and it won't do any harm.

If you get the feel of it, it can be just as smooth as with the clutch.

[Shinysideup]

Thanks, Ain. I am definitely getting better at it!

I did have the opportunity to ride Scuderia's demo bike again, which now has over 700 miles on it, and the shifter is way smoother after that break-in period. So I'm all optimistic and enjoying this great machine on a daily basis.

I've also developed a handy habit: When stopped at a light, just before it turns green, I very gently and very slightly roll on the throttle to take out the slack in the drive train before accelerating away from the cars. This habit eliminates the clunk factor.

The not using the clutch for stops and starts, combined with staying in 1st gear for most city driving, superb handling, superb braking, makes this bike an ideal "streetfighter".

[Ain]

I've also developed a handy habit: When stopped at a light, just before it turns green, I very gently and very slightly roll on the throttle to take out the slack in the drive train before accelerating away from the cars. This habit eliminates the clunk factor.

Totally agree!  I've been playing with this too and pre-loading the transmission a bit or rolling on slowly almost eliminates the "clunk" completely.

It would be interesting to hear from Brammo on what the "clunk" is (or maybe there's been a topic on this).  I was assuming it's some type of coupler/clutch for the motor vs. something in the transmission.

[AJ Nin]

I thought it was the clutch too since all bikes do clunk at least a little when you shift. How does this clutch and transmission work exactly? Can you be in first gear and take your hand off the clutch at the stop light, or will the bike lurch forward and die like a gas bike if you do that? Is there a Neutral? On a gas bike the clunk would not be from the transmission but from going from N to 1st when you shift...a clutch sound. Then as you start to move there is no sound. This sounds like it might work differently.

[flar]

How does this clutch and transmission work exactly? Can you be in first gear and take your hand off the clutch at the stop light, or will the bike lurch forward and die like a gas bike if you do that? Is there a Neutral?

The motor doesn't spin if it doesn't need to.  You don't need to use the clutch at a stop, just when changing gears (while moving, not sure if you can change gears at a stop without using the clutch as I didn't try that on my test ride).

You can pick a gear and leave it in that gear and ignore the clutch as if it were a single speed bike.  You only need to clutch and shift if you want to change the gearing to change the acceleration vs. top speed tradeoff, but all gears allow you to go down to 0.

There is a neutral between 2nd and 3rd, but you don't really need it in normal operation.

[Ain]

I thought it was the clutch too since all bikes do clunk at least a little when you shift. How does this clutch and transmission work exactly? Can you be in first gear and take your hand off the clutch at the stop light, or will the bike lurch forward and die like a gas bike if you do that? Is there a Neutral? On a gas bike the clunk would not be from the transmission but from going from N to 1st when you shift...a clutch sound. Then as you start to move there is no sound. This sounds like it might work differently.

You NEVER need to pull the clutch in when you stop.  You just downshift to 1st, and it will do regenerative braking all the way to stop.  Then you just twist the throttle to begin moving again.  You can never "stall" the Empulse.  

There is a neutral, but the pattern is a little different:

1-2-N-3-4-5-6

You don't really need to use Neutral, but makes it easier to push around (or you can pull the clutch in).  The bike can be pushed pretty easily while it's in gear too - the electric motor spins pretty freely when the bike is on or off.

The bike will roll even when in first gear and there isn't a "parking brake" feature.  You do need to keep an eye on how you position it when parking on a hill since you can't just put it in 1st to prevent it from rolling.

This does bring up one future accessory that the Empulse needs...  Some type of line/lever lock for the brake to keep the bike from rolling when parked on a non-level surface.  But, it would have to be really simple and not have a risk of engaging while moving.

[Shinysideup]

I think the clunk is just typical "slop" in the drive train: gears and chain. I also think it's more pronounced than on some bikes, because of the amount of torque coming through the mechanical system as soon as the electrons hit the magnets, coupled with the lack of the feathering effect of smoothly engaging clutch plates into an already spinning flywheel power plant.

I remember rolling along very slowly in first gear on my R1200R and goosing the throttle a bit and letting go, and hearing about the same amount of clunk from the tranny and shaft drive.

As far as rolling while parked: for around $10 I found a cool accessory at Scuderia West, made by KTM for their dirt bikes. It consists of a stiff rubber loop attached to an orange plastic hook with a projecting tab for a handle. Slip the loop over the brake lever, stretch it by pulling on the orange hook's handle, and grab the right grip with the hook. The rubber loop then squeezes in the brake lever and holds it there: voila! Parking brake. Cheap. Effective. Portable.

I secure it by forcing the rubber loop onto the passenger hand grip from the rear. It has stayed there in 80 mph rides and is fairly easy to remove by slipping it off the tapered handle.

When I showed it to Don, he had never seen it, and was so excited that he was going to send a picture to Brammo. MUCH cheaper/less complex than engineering and installing a cable-operated parking brake.

Actually, although I park all over San Francisco's hills every day, I find I've rarely used it. Just make sure the bike rolls backwards, against the curb, before leaning over on the side stand. No worries.

[Shinysideup]

You don't really need to use Neutral, but makes it easier to push around (or you can pull the clutch in).  The bike can be pushed pretty easily while it's in gear too - the electric motor spins pretty freely when the bike is on or off.

Also, I think I heard that there's a federal legal requirement for a Neutral.

My guess is that they probably put it between 2nd an 3rd to avoid false neutral selections when shifting in city driving, since 2nd gear will handle just about all the speed you'd need in town.

[flar]

You NEVER need to pull the clutch in when you stop.  You just downshift to 1st, and it will do regenerative braking all the way to stop.  Then you just twist the throttle to begin moving again.  You can never "stall" the Empulse.  

Downshifting to 1st is optional.  If you don't really need the extra oomph that 1st provides you can just stop in whatever gear you were zipping around in and twist to go again (though with less impressive acceleration)...

[Richard230]

Keep in mind that the Brammo Empulse is probably the only electric motorcycle with a clutch and a "neutral".  EV's don't need a clutch to disconnect their motors at a stop or to "feather" the engine speed to be able to take off.  Zero and the Enertia being two prime examples, as they both have a direct drive. If you want to go from a stop, you just turn on the power and take off. The same thing happens when you want to stop.  You turn the power off and the inertia of the bike keeps it going until you apply the brake or regen and rolling friction slows you to a stop.  If you want to you can ride the Empulse the same way.

The cheapest and lightest parking brake is a strip of Velcro-like material, wrapped around the front brake lever and handle bar.  You can buy a roll of this stuff at hardware and gardening stores as it is used to fasten new trees and shrubs to supporting stakes. Much easier than using a string or thin wire, which is how it used to be done.

[Shinysideup]

The cheapest and lightest parking brake is a strip of Velcro-like material, wrapped around the front brake lever and handle bar.  You can buy a roll of this stuff at hardware and gardening stores as it is used to fasten new trees and shrubs to supporting stakes. Much easier than using a string or thin wire, which is how it used to be done.

Yeah, but Richard, if local riders buy velcro, they can't drop by Scuderia and get great satisfaction for finding the KTM orange farkle I described above, AND walk out with 3 other items they never knew they needed until they went through the doors!