Hopefully the finalized manual will have the oil drain bolt torque omission, er, plugged. Adam from Brammo has specified 25 Nm for the oil drain bolt. 15 Nm for the fill plug, and 11 Nm for the oil check bolt.
Good practice: Before you remove the drain plug, look carefully for any weepage which may indicate a bad seal.
I was amazed at the amount of debris on the magnetic bolt at the 600 mile change. Lots of steel bits that I was surely glad the magnet caught.
I found the oil fill plug difficult to pour into and so used the breather hose on the left side of the bike after removing its vented plug by releasing the hose clamp. Way EZ.
The oil check hole is too small to really look into (a sight glass would have been nice). I just poured the bulk of the quart in and then poured slowly until oil started running out the check hole.
*** Note that this level is supposed to be checked while the bike is on the SIDE stand.
As to oil, I'd definitely use a full synthetic from a motorcycle shop, and an oil that's approved for a wet clutch. Automotive oils have a different additive package, IIRC. I ended up with a Honda mc engine oil that I'm sure will work just fine, as the shifting improved after the change.
PS: Here's the entries I used for my garage-wall spreadsheet (use at your own risk):
Bolt Location Wrench Size Torque
Chain Tensioners 13 mm x2 21.4 Nm
Frame savers front (10 mm) 8 mm hex 36 Nm
Frame savers rear (8 mm) 6 mm hex 21 Nm
Oil Check Bolt 5 mm hex 11 Nm
Oil Drain Plug 17 mm 25 Nm
Oil Fill Fill Plug 14 mm 15 Nm
Oil vent hose clamp 8 mm just snug
Rear Axle 27 mm 55 Nm
Seat release 5 mm hex 6.7 Nm
Note: Above edited 2/28 with corrected values.
