Author Topic: Stream of fault codes, power cut...help!!!  (Read 66 times)

electricflyer

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Stream of fault codes, power cut...help!!!
« on: October 05, 2017, 01:40:13 PM »
Early last spring, my Empulse R starting leaking fluid from the left side of the motor. Early summer, I put the bike on a stand to disassemble. No obvious source, and parts are barely available anyway, so I cleaned up and reassembled, though havenít gotten to ride over the last few months.

This week, I pulled the bike out to give it a test and start commuting with it again. While driving, I initially got a fault code B62, which isnít listed in the manual (forum posts indicate a battery heater fault, though temperatures are hardly chilly right now in Florida). Shortly after that, the bike cut motor power with fault code B40, BMS back in idle mode. After pulling over, turning off and on cleared this code and I could move again. However, the same code and cut out happened accelerating through 20 mph. I then attempted to limp home at 10 mph, which worked for a couple miles, until it popped fault code A6, AIM module not communicating. This code continues with power cycling, and the bike isnít rideable.

Iím afraid that these issues are unrecoverable. Is it possible that I have a failing battery module? Any ideas on how to diagnose and fix? No one in my area is familiar with these bikes, so Iím on my own.

Thanks!

siai47

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Re: Stream of fault codes, power cut...help!!!
« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2017, 04:52:39 PM »
Leak in the motor?  Only two fluids in the drive system, transmission oil and motor coolant.  If the left side of the motor, most likely coolant.  The motor housing is an aluminum extrusion with cooling passages as part of the extrusion.  That means that the ends of the motor which in the old days were called end bells, seal the coolant in the motor with "O" rings.  I would assume one of those failed and that's where your leak is coming from.  In the left end of the motor is the encoder.  This is a timing plate that tells the controller the position of the rotor so the motor can rotate with proper rotation and commutation.  These things are really picky---things like light dirt or even dust can upset them.  Also, as there are the circuits that go back to the controller located in the left end of the motor, filling it with coolant might not be the best thing for it.  That might be part or all of your problem.  There is only one liter of coolant in the entire system and if you lost the coolant that could be another cause of your problem.  Take the radiator cap off and check the level.  If down a lot, you have a big leak that should be easy to find.  Motor has to be purged of air when refilled with either an Allen plug located on the end of the motor (Parker) or on the top of the motor housing (IET). 

If you can find a dealer with the diagnostic software, he should be able to spot all of the problems.  If you have to remove the end cover of the motor to replace the seals, you will need the services of the dealer anyway as he will have to re-time the encoder after you reassemble the motor--they are that fussy.  I am hoping your leak is external and not internal as there might be more motor damage.  If you have the Parker motor, someone on the internet is selling new ones (Victory style end cover) for a reasonable price.  You might even be able to make him an offer as I don't think he has some hot moving merchandise.

It's pain in the A** to remove the motor as the complete motor and transmission assembly needs to be removed  from the bike to get the clutch cover off and access the motor attachment bolts.  Once on a bench, the motor is fairly easy to disassemble.  I also don't know why you are getting BMS errors.  Does the bike charge OK and are the cell balances close?  The leak, which needs to be fixed anyway, might be just another problem not completely related to your driveability problem.