Grinding / ratteling noise while accelerating hard.

[Leander]

What could it be?
-gears from the transmission?
-bearings from the motor?
-bearings from the rear wheel?
-cogging from the motor?

chain kit has been swapped already and doesn't make a diffrence.

bike runs oke-ish.

[siai47]

Does it happen in any gear?  Have you changed or checked the transmission oil for any foreign debris?  Any weird noises when you rev the motor up in neutral?  What is the condition of the front chain sprocket?  Grinding and rattling are kind of two different things so one thing could be leading to the other.

[Leander]

every gear under heavy acceleration.

complete finel drive is new but it did allready do it.

I suspect it is/are the bearings from the front sprocket axle?

no noises when in neutral.

[siai47]

If it is internal to the transmission, you would be able to find crud in the oil (filings, chips, chunks, etc.).  If the noise and rattling is in all gears, then it might be the primary reduction (between the motor and the clutch).  Anything you do requires the removal of the motor and transmission from the bike.  Even if you just want to remove the cover on the clutch housing to take a look.  If you don't have a shop manual that covers the transmission, I wouldn't try to open it up.  Also, gaskets or internal parts are not available for the transmission.  Again, inspect the oil in the transmission to confirm that the problem is internal to the transmission.  If it turns out you need parts, you might try to contact IET to see what they can provide.  However, I don't know if anyone in Italy can answer the phone right now.

[Shinysideup]

Could it possibly be the rear wheel bearings?
I had them go out and I seem to remember that they made noise, but soon failed totally and the rear wheel was wobbling around: a fairly reliable clue!

[E-cite]

Most likely the clutch is slipping and chattering. try using oil without slipping agents also make sure the bleed hole in the clutch master is not plugged as that can cause pressure to build in the system. Good test is to loosen the banjo bolt to relieve any pressure then ride it making sure you don't touch the clutch lever.

[Leander]

I think I found the problem.

turn out my chain was slack.  but also the wheel wasn't alinged correctly.


seem much better now.

[Shinysideup]

Ah, your symptoms make sense now.
I have found this tool much more accurate that trying to align the rear wheel by using marks on the swing arm:

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0048

[siai47]

If you really had enough "slack" in the chain to cause a rattling noise while accelerating hard then you most likely have an additional problem.  Sprocket wear on the Empulse is a problem even on bikes that have had proper chain maintenance.  When you run the motorcycle with a loose chain, the chain tends to climb up on the teeth of the sprockets instead of staying tight against the heal of the tooth.  This puts very high loads on the tip of the tooth and over time can actually bend the tooth to the point that the tooth shape becomes more of a ramp to the chain instead of something that can drive the chain.  You really need to inspect the sprockets and be sure the teeth look normal and are not deformed in any way.  This is a more serious problem on the primary (front) sprocket as it has a smaller diameter and lower tooth contact than the rear sprocket.  If there is a problem, the sprocket needs to be replaced with a new one.  Possibly the chain needs replacement also.  Proper chain tension at this point (running on damaged sprockets) will only delay the day when the chain breaks or the sprocket fails which can really ruin your day.

[E-cite]

I work on bikes daily and tightening a chain is always a bad idea. The chain just like the belts on modern motorcycles should be loose. Running it tight will cause stretch and will destroy the sprockets and chain. Alignment may be part of the problem however and that can be easily adjusted without any special tools just make sure the chain tracks centered on the rear sprocket.

[Leander]

I just took the slack out, it was hitting the swing arm.

sprockets and chain are new.

I guess something shifted after swapping those out.

[E-cite]

I guess hitting the swing arm would be an issue so good catch on that one. I just pulled the rear tire off mine and stuck a car tire on there. What I found was the  chain if super tight with the suspension fully extended so I set the tension at that point and now at normal height the slack is about 1 inch which is perfect. I am getting just a tiny bit of tire rub on the right side of the fender but soon it will "wear in"

BTW before the flaming starts this is a reverse trike prototype so car tires on all three corners. I just applied for the patent which is a new product named - Zener - Ecite

[HadesOmega]

As long as the chain slack is to spec it should be ok.  Suppose to be less than 17mm (<17) according to the victory owners manual measured while bike is on a rear stand.

[siai47]

Do what you want to because nobody is going to change anyone's mind.  Run the chain tension or belt tension to the manufactures spec and you should be OK.  I don't work on motorcycles every day so just dismiss anything I say on this forum.  When a chain gets so loose that it is rattling then I guess that's OK also.  It's your bike.

As to car tires on a motorcycle that's a whole other can of worms with a lot of people split on that topic.  Research the differences between sidewall construction and shapes between a tire used on a motorcycle rim and an automotive rim.  I own a Can-Am Spyder but I don't work on it daily so don't believe anything I say about this either.  Check out the Can-Am forums on this topic if you want to learn some interesting things or just search you-tube.

Rant over, signing off.   

[E-cite]

Or one can design reverse trikes for a living which does add some cred