C3 sysytem fault (battery interlock open) and low mains

[Leander]

Last friday I got the C3 fault on my bike when want in to commute home.
was at 80% SOC so I still made it home with very conservative riding.

I delved into the log files and saw module 5 going off first so I suspect that BMS from generating the fault.
I also noticed that the charger had a low mains warning at the same time.
No other strange or unexpected things in the files otherwise.

the C3 error is not present anymore in later log files so I guess that cleared itself.

But... the bike will still not charge. It will start up the sequence but at the point where normaly the Amps would ramp up (charging begining) it doesn't

Any one has any idea how to tackle this problem?
Do I have to to close the interlock somehow?
What does low mains mean?

[Leander]

found the culprit! (I think).

somehow the wire from the onboard charger to the batteries got damaged and shorted with a bracket, it's the one running through the red/black connector.
also the 3 lower 15A fuses on the high voltage side are blow.

So now I have the take the charger apart to replace the damaged wire or find an other solution.
and find some new fuses offcourse.

[Shinysideup]

Good detective work!
Let's hope the fuses blew in time to protect everything. (Probably did).

[Leander]

The charger system gives a lot of trouble, if you browse the forum you will find a lot of issues related to the charger.

It seems like a lot of 3rd party products on the empulse are not up to par. like the parker GVM coolant leakage.

[Leander]

small update:

I replaced the broken 125v 15A fuses with pieces of wire. (high risk!)
and I cut out the piece off melted wire and reconnected it with connector.

then I reconnected the main battery cable.
no smoke, so far so good.

Then I plugged in the charge cable.

next plugged in the wall socket...


Charge!

put in 15% extra to get it out of that nearly empty state.


TO DO:
-New and thicker wires from the onboard charger to where ever they need to go.
those are the only wires that get warm / hot during charching, ergo to much resistance.
-Find new fuses, which will be difficult I found out.

[Shinysideup]

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/240/Littelfuse-Automotive-Blade-Fuse-FUN-MINI-125V-63997.pdf

[Leander]

took the charger out of the bike today.
opened it up.
Found that the wires I want to replace are soldered to the PCB.
going to bring it to an Electronics repair shop to change out the wires for me.

Quality of the existing wires on the charger are is the same as domestic cabling here, mayby good for 240AC at 10A for a short while but not good enough for hours of charging at 116V DC 25 amps.

I also noticed that the cables on the charger were already damaged from factory assembly.
there are some pinced spots next to the connectors.
Guess the charger suplier had bad QC.

the black and red (Anderson powerpole?) connector wasn't up to the task either.

[Leander]

charger has been fixed, picked it up today.
it now has a 70Amp anderson connector
and thicker wires.

now for those damn fuses