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Author Topic: Chain tensioning  (Read 3816 times)

Brammofan

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Chain tensioning
« on: October 05, 2011, 09:49:44 AM »
I noticed my chain was getting a bit looser than it should.  I was going to adjust it before I left the house this morning, but realized I needed either a 27mm socket or wrench for the axle nut.  The chain has been adjusted once already - by BrammoJen during one of her visits - but this will be my first time.  The Owners manual makes it look pretty straightforward, but if anyone has any pointers, please chime in.
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Richard230

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Re: Chain tensioning
« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2011, 10:39:36 AM »
I have been adjusting chains for 50 years and those instructions are some of the best I have seen. The only thing I can add is to double check the chain sag after tightening the axle bolt. For some reason, the chain sag always seems to tighten up a bit when the axle bolt is fully tightened. Don't forget to pick up a few extra cotter pins and reinstall a new one. Another option is to use a re-usable cotter pin, but you will have to find one that will fit around that large axle nut. Also, don't use any lubricant on the axle nut when reinstalling it. Just clean it and the axle threads thoroughly before reinstalling the nut.

The nut can be removed by using a large adjustable wrench, but you will need a socket and a 3/8 drive torque wrench to reinstall it properly. Really cheap torque wrenches can be purchased from Harbor Freight and they will work OK for a part like an axle nut. However, fancy and easy to use torque wrenches, such as the Sears Digitork models are my favorite, but they cost around $100 each.

If you have any specific questions about adjusting chains, I'll be glad to reply, Brammofan
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Brammofan

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Re: Chain tensioning
« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2011, 10:44:05 AM »
Thank you Richard.  I come from a long line of cotter-pin-re-users so it didn't even occur to me to buy new ones. 

I already have a cheap torque wrench, although I think it's 1/2" drive, so I'm good there.  I'll pick up the socket and cotter pins on my way home.
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Brammofan

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Re: Chain tensioning
« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2011, 03:15:50 PM »
YES!  I did it and it REALLY needed it.  I had about 2" of play - no wonder it went clankety-clank when I went over bumps.  

Following the instructions, I removed the cotter pin, loosened the 27mm axle nut (had to buy the socket for this), loosened the locknuts on the adjuster bolts and started turning the adjusters...the wrong way.  Figured this out pretty quickly, turned them the right way, measured the slack -- still too much, turned some more, measured, some more, etc. and then, I measured the distance from the axle center to the swingarm pivot center and it was equal.  Tightened the lock nuts, tightened the axle nut (with my torque wrench), and inserted a new cotter pin into the axle to hold the castellated nut. (Thanks Dad, for teaching me what that means, and that it has no relevance to castrated nuts).  

This morning - no more clankety-clank.  Now that I know how to do it, I'm going to be watching the slack a lot closer.

I highly recommend that all motorcycle owners do this maintenance - If I can do it (and not screw it up), any moron can.

EDIT: and yes, I lubed it with the DuPont chain wax, too. :)
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Gavin

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Re: Chain tensioning
« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2011, 03:27:34 PM »
good job....

me? hoping the O-chain keeps me from having to do this too often...

Gavin
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Richard230

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Re: Chain tensioning
« Reply #5 on: October 06, 2011, 05:12:02 PM »
Congratulations, Brammofan. Did you notice how much easier it is to insert a new cotter pin, compared with trying to reuse and insert the old bent pin, into the castrated nut?   ;D

Gavin, if you have installed a quality O-ring chain on your bike, I'll bet that chain will last longer than your battery pack. Plus, it is unlikely that you will ever need to adjust the chain, provided it is cleaned and lubed regularly. Technically, all the the lube does on an O-ring chain is to keep the chain from rusting and the rubber O-rings soft. As long as the O-rings remain unbroken, the factory lube should stay within the chain links, until it wears out, hardens, or finally disappears due to  ???.  But the lube will make your front and rear sprockets last much longer than not lubing - or lubing with something like WD-40.
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Deadly Silent Ninja

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Re: Chain tensioning
« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2011, 01:52:25 PM »
Quote
hoping the O-chain keeps me from having to do this too often...

Yep. I don't mind getting dirty and tinkering with the bike to adapt things to my riding style, but these "forced" regular maintenance can be frustrating if they come too often. :-\
One of the biggest advantages of having an electric bike to me is the low amount of work I'll have to put on the bike. That leaves more time for fun. ;)

@fan: How long did the whole procedure take? I mean, without counting beer/coffee breaks.
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Richard230

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Re: Chain tensioning
« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2011, 04:43:43 PM »
When I adjust the slack in a chain, it typically takes me about 30 minutes, start to finish, including clean up.

And I never drink beer while performing motorcycle repairs or maintenance - I have enough trouble performing the task sober.
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Richard230

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Re: Chain tensioning
« Reply #8 on: October 10, 2011, 09:48:19 AM »
RK chain has just announced a 20,000-mile warranty for their best chain. Apparently there are not specific requirements for maintenance and care to qualify for the warranty, other than not abusing the chain. No word if using their chain on an electric motorcycle is abuse, though.   ;)  Read about it here:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-news/2011/rk-gxw-series-chain.htm
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Gavin

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Re: Chain tensioning
« Reply #9 on: October 11, 2011, 11:41:36 AM »
I wonder if Brammo has thought of going belt drive?

I was over looking at the Zero DS (really not a bad bike...a bit more range would be nice, and it has a bit of a cost premium, but I am kinda liking it more and more as time goes on...too much longer of a wait on the Plus and I just might go ahead and get that DS...)

I did like this line:

New maintenance free and virtually silent belt drive system.

Mmmmm, little to no maintenance and quiet too? Win win.

Gavin
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Brammofan

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Re: Chain tensioning
« Reply #10 on: October 11, 2011, 02:28:32 PM »
A couple of observations about that RK chain with the 20,000 mile warranty - the Brammo Enertia chain is spec'd at size 420 with 124 links.  See: http://brammo.com/store/chain/ for $50.  No telling what brand this is.

Those RK GXW series chains do not come in any size smaller than 520.  I was able to find an RK chain in the right size: RK GB420MXZ Heavy Duty RK Drive Chain . $38.00, but I don't think it's an o-ring chain as its specs say "non- sealed."

And Gavin, if you poke around here, you're likely to find a discussion about the belt vs. chain debate and I think Brammo Brian even chimed in on it. 
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protomech

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Re: Chain tensioning
« Reply #11 on: October 11, 2011, 02:36:59 PM »
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SocalTech

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Re: Chain tensioning
« Reply #12 on: January 16, 2012, 03:05:31 PM »
Quote from: Gavin on October 11, 2011, 11:41:36 AM
I wonder if Brammo has thought of going belt drive?

I was over looking at the Zero DS (really not a bad bike...a bit more range would be nice, and it has a bit of a cost premium, but I am kinda liking it more and more as time goes on...too much longer of a wait on the Plus and I just might go ahead and get that DS...)

I did like this line:

New maintenance free and virtually silent belt drive system.

Mmmmm, little to no maintenance and quiet too? Win win.

Gavin

my thoughts Gavin are cost and weight, you add more weight with the belt pulleys and cost of the chain to belt is chain= $30 to $50 belts are over $150, and still require adjustments.

again just my thoughts
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