First Mod for the Empulse R??

[protomech]

I badly want heated gloves .. don't need a heated upper layer for now, as I pretty much stop riding once the ground turns freezing .. but my hands get very cold, even with air deflectors and what are supposedly winter gloves. (They're totally not)

[Gavin]

http://m.motorcycle-superstore.com/ItemPage.aspx?DivisionGroupId=14&DivisionId=67&DepartmentId=904&ItemStyleId=10885

First Gear Carbon heated gloves

I've never used them as I don't have the electrical system on my current ride,
But I did try them on at a store and LOVED the fit and feel

I like to be tough and go without the fancy heated stuff, but I might change my mind for these gloves... Plus I like he "safer" comment.

I can see being safer when not shivering insanely

Gavin

[BrammoBrian]

Picked up a white Empulse R yesterday, and, under a rainbow, rode home between showers.  Just gotta say: I love this bike! Definitely worth the wait.

Got it into 6th gear on the freeway and she felt solid at 75 mph.

I've got an email off to Brammo to find out the load limit on the 12V supply.

Eventually, I may have to give Rick Mayer a visit and see about getting a custom seat made.

I REALLY need some bags, since I'll be using this on-the-job as a visiting nurse. No word yet from Brammo on ETA. They're "in development". Meanwhile Rok-Straps, a small duffel, and my backpack will have to do. Sun tomorrow

To answer some questions:

6th gear @ 75mph - Was that in normal or sport mode?  If normal mode, then probably about right, but in Sport mode you'll be in 4th most likely at this speed and the appropriate motor rpm (5-6k rpm).

You'll need to determine the current or wattage requirements for the heated gear you're targeting. There are some extra watts available on the 12Vdc system, but running a vest, gloves, gps, louder horn, and auxillary lighting is probably not going to work.  It may run fine until you go to lay on the horn and blow a fuse...

The slope of the back of the seat is due to some tight packaging with the on-board 3kW charger, which you're basically sitting on top of.  You could "lengthen" the seating area, but you'd have to raise the seat height overall to do it.  For those with long legs that feel "cramped", this probably wouldn't be too much of an issue.  

The GIVI saddle bags were shown at EICMA, so we're just finalizing the production details now.  Sorry for the delay.  As a side note, you should be able to use almost any sport bike tail bag on the bike.  I used a tailbag designed for my BMW S1000RR during testing a few weeks ago and found that it worked just great.  There's plenty of hard parts to strap to back there. You'll just lose your passenger seat.  Something like this would work well...http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14/71/986/28888/ITEM/MotoCentric-Mototrek-Sport-Tail-Bag.aspx

Last, but not least, WE NEED PICTURES!

[Richard230]

I badly want heated gloves .. don't need a heated upper layer for now, as I pretty much stop riding once the ground turns freezing .. but my hands get very cold, even with air deflectors and what are supposedly winter gloves. (They're totally not)

 

I have seen several types of heated gloves advertized, using rechargeable Li batteries that are supposed to keep your hands warm for several hours on a charge. Most locate the batteries in a pouch on the upper portion of the gauntlet. I have seen these advertized in motorcycle accessory and outdoor supply catalogs.  They may not work as well as hard-wired 12V gloves, but would be a lot more convenient to use and you would not have to install a 12V accessory plug, or worry about taxing the electrical system on your bike.

[Shinysideup]

To answer some questions:

6th gear @ 75mph - Was that in normal or sport mode?  If normal mode, then probably about right, but in Sport mode you'll be in 4th most likely at this speed and the appropriate motor rpm (5-6k rpm).

You'll need to determine the current or wattage requirements for the heated gear you're targeting. There are some extra watts available on the 12Vdc system, but running a vest, gloves, gps, louder horn, and auxillary lighting is probably not going to work.  It may run fine until you go to lay on the horn and blow a fuse...

The slope of the back of the seat is due to some tight packaging with the on-board 3kW charger, which you're basically sitting on top of.  You could "lengthen" the seating area, but you'd have to raise the seat height overall to do it.  For those with long legs that feel "cramped", this probably wouldn't be too much of an issue.  

The GIVI saddle bags were shown at EICMA, so we're just finalizing the production details now.  Sorry for the delay.  As a side note, you should be able to use almost any sport bike tail bag on the bike.  I used a tailbag designed for my BMW S1000RR during testing a few weeks ago and found that it worked just great.  There's plenty of hard parts to strap to back there. You'll just lose your passenger seat.  Something like this would work well...http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14/71/986/28888/ITEM/MotoCentric-Mototrek-Sport-Tail-Bag.aspx

Last, but not least, WE NEED PICTURES!

Freeway was in normal mode. Can't use sport mode until whatever needs breaking in is broke in.

I can easily determine my wattage requirements for the gear I want to run. What I'm asking is for the wattage limit of the 12V supply... something maybe a little more precise than "some extra watts available." 

Jacket liner = 77 watts on full
Gloves = 30 watts on full
LED running lights 3 watts
Horn = 60 watts which is maybe 30 more than stock horn?

Total approx 140 watts. Is my fuse blown?

Someday I may let a seat guru play with the seat. It works OK for now. I appreciate the charger being under there and how it constrains the seat design. I don't know how you guys get it all to fit together at all!

I remember liking the looks of the Givi side cases and look forward to getting some. Is their a top case in the works? Tail bags don't cut it for me: I need a hard case for big city security.

For now, there's a whopping total of one picture of me and the bike on the Brammo FB page. I'll get pics of my mods up fairly soon.

I put on 45 miles today and used 43% of the battery: mixed freeway and city. So 1% = 1 mile and 100% = 100 miles... as advertised. What a fun bike to ride!

Thanks for the reply and have a good holiday.

Bill

[protomech]

Love that the Brammo bikes are rolling out just in time for the holidays.

Btw, congrats on the bike, shiny.. first forum member in long-standing to snag an Empulse.

Possible to rig up a switch to cut power to the vest / gloves when you lay into the horn?

Hope all of you and yours enjoy your family time this holiday season. Hopefully everyone at Brammo can take at least a quick breather : )

[Shinysideup]

Possible to rig up a switch to cut power to the vest / gloves when you lay into the horn?

Sounds like a great idea. Now just post the schematic and parts list!  Maybe we should enter it in the aftermarket arena, with the catch phrase: "Honk too much and freeze your butt!"

[BrammoBrian]

Freeway was in normal mode. Can't use sport mode until whatever needs breaking in is broke in.

I can easily determine my wattage requirements for the gear I want to run. What I'm asking is for the wattage limit of the 12V supply... something maybe a little more precise than "some extra watts available." 

Jacket liner = 77 watts on full
Gloves = 30 watts on full
LED running lights 3 watts
Horn = 60 watts which is maybe 30 more than stock horn?

Total approx 140 watts. Is my fuse blown?

Someday I may let a seat guru play with the seat. It works OK for now. I appreciate the charger being under there and how it constrains the seat design. I don't know how you guys get it all to fit together at all!

I remember liking the looks of the Givi side cases and look forward to getting some. Is their a top case in the works? Tail bags don't cut it for me: I need a hard case for big city security.

For now, there's a whopping total of one picture of me and the bike on the Brammo FB page. I'll get pics of my mods up fairly soon.

I put on 45 miles today and used 43% of the battery: mixed freeway and city. So 1% = 1 mile and 100% = 100 miles... as advertised. What a fun bike to ride!

Thanks for the reply and have a good holiday.

Bill

Ok. That makes sense for normal mode under the break-in procedure (nice job sticking to it).  The break-in is primarily for the transmission.  You'll notice that it will start to "free-up" and shift a bit "slicker" once the break-in period is over.  I think you'll also be impressed with the performance boost in sport mode. 

Understood on your question for the wattage budget that remains on the bike.  I don't know this answer off the top of my head, so I'll have to get back to you on that.  You may receive an answer from our Service Manager earlier if you've already emailed him.  I believe we use a 300 Watt DC-DC converter, so you can probably understand my concern about not overloading it. 

Yeah - I sometimes forget that we live in a small community where theft is relatively rare. Just thought you could use a tail bag if you just happened to have one around until the Givi side bags show up. 

Glad to hear you're able to get out and ride.  I'm also glad you're happy with the range and you'll be even happier as you notice the range increase further when it gets warmer in the Spring.  If you can keep the bike plugged in and in a warm garage over night, it will help as well.  Happy Holidays!   

[Shinysideup]

Thanks for the reply, on Christmas day, even. No rest for the wicked?

Maybe a simpler way to approach the 12V wattage available issue is simply to go by what size fuse is on that circuit. I have no idea where the fuses are, so I will stop by Scuderia and pester their tech guys. Meanwhile if your engineering team has some sage advice, I'm sure the whole community would benefit. I would certainly hate to damage a 300W converter. Of the cuff, it would seem headlight, instruments, brake/tail light and turn signals would leave plenty left over. But I'm one of those weird dudes that likes numbers! (Not as much as protomech, though!)

Had a great ride today in pouring rain, 45F. Had the whole sweeping twisty road to myself and cruising along at 50 mph or so with the smooth, powerful, hum of the motor: sweet!

I'm over 1/2 way through break-in, so I can soon play with the Sport setting. I'm sure I'll like it. I already feel the tranny getting easier to shift.

Question: On page 20, the manual says there is no need to rev-match when downshifting...

Yet Shelina Moreda in her interview about her recent track testing says she was told it's important to do so.

My experience so far: Not blipping the throttle at all feels harsher on the drive train than a very quick, very slight blip. But if I try actually to spin the motor up as on an ICE, it quickly over revs. Is that what the manual is cautioning against? Or should I just let the tranny's electronic magic handle things and clutch and jam the shifter into the next lower gear without touching the throttle?

[EmpulseRider]

Congrats on the new wheels Shiny!! Thats awesome!

Bummer about the horn, I like a nice loud horn to supplement my middle finger from time to time, so I will probably upgrade that eventually.

I didnt know the Empulse had an accessory port so I got a battery powered vest... I dont think it will be nearly as warm as your 12v jacket liner but it should be much better than nothing. I think my next purchase will be heated gloves, then I should be all set.

[Shinysideup]

I didnt know the Empulse had an accessory port so I got a battery powered vest... I dont think it will be nearly as warm as your 12v jacket liner but it should be much better than nothing. I think my next purchase will be heated gloves, then I should be all set.

I too have purchased a self-contained vest (Hawaii Jett Vest from Australia)  and it does help quite a bit with some insulation over it and, of course, excellent wind protection of the outer layer. But, as you stated, it's nothing like having 77W of heat wrapped around back, chest, arms and neck!

So are you looking at separate self-contained-battery-operated gloves? If so, what brand looks good?

I'm thinking another option, if there's not enough juice available through the Empulse's 12V plug for liner and gloves, would be to use the self-contained vest along with gloves powered by the 12Vplug. Powering gloves only would use only 30W. It's crucial to me to have hands that aren't numb and painful.

Another option, once the side cases are available would be to haul around a spare 12V battery to power the jacket liner. I happen to have a moto battery that's in decent shape that would power the liner for a couple of hours, though I doubt it would be happy with such deep-cycle duty.

A search just found this lithium battery with built-in protection circuit that, at 4 lbs.,  could easily be carried in a backpack, for $250:

http://www.all-battery.com/148volt-20ahheavydutyli-polypackwithpcbcustomize.aspx

14.8 volts and 20 Ah would power a 77W jacket liner for 3 hours on a charge. This battery is rated at 8 amps continuous discharge.

Size is  205mm x 150mm x 31.5mm

They also have a smaller 13 Ah version for $150 that would be good for a couple of hours:

http://www.all-battery.com/TenergyLi-Ion18650_14.8V13000mAhPCBProtectedRechargeableBatteryPack-31047.aspx

Add a charger for $20, and we're talking some relatively big bucks to save on size and weight vs. lead acid.

Let's just hope the wonderful wizards at Brammo have considered heated clothing in their 12V plug's capacity. After all, anybody interested in an electric bike is gonna want to farkle it with all sorts of electronics!

[EmpulseRider]

I wont be on the bike longer than I have to be during cold weather so I would only need about an hour or two of battery life. The vest I got is this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WAATYG/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00
Pretty happy with it overall, and it was relatively inexpensive.

Not sure what gloves im gonna get, but I really like the guys at sportbiketrackgear.com, though they have very limited options from what I can tell. They have one pair that are battery powered:

http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=13032

And one pair that utilize the accessory port:

http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=11718

[BrammoBrian]

Thanks for the reply, on Christmas day, even. No rest for the wicked?

Question: On page 20, the manual says there is no need to rev-match when downshifting...

Yet Shelina Moreda in her interview about her recent track testing says she was told it's important to do so.

My experience so far: Not blipping the throttle at all feels harsher on the drive train than a very quick, very slight blip. But if I try actually to spin the motor up as on an ICE, it quickly over revs. Is that what the manual is cautioning against? Or should I just let the tranny's electronic magic handle things and clutch and jam the shifter into the next lower gear without touching the throttle?

Ha! No rest for the weary more like it... I've got a 3 month old, so I'm awake at weird hours and sometimes operating in a semi-comatose fog due to sleep deprivation... concentrating on technical details of the bikes keeps me sane. Thanks for asking.

Hmmm... I don't recall telling Shelina to match revs on the downshift, but maybe it's something EBoz told her to try.  I don't typically blip the throttle and don't really think it's necessary, but if you think it makes the shift smoother, then I don't really see a problem with it.  As you mention, it is quite easy to over-rev the motor with no load, so a full "blip" should be avoided. I think it also depends on the speed of the bike and the speed of the shift.  I can definitely see how spinning the motor would help engage a gear more smoothly at lower speeds.

You don't really need to use the clutch on the upshift if you "power-shift" it - i.e. back off throttle for a second to unload the tranny and then grab the shift.  You should, however, always use the clutch on the downshift.  The goal, as with any ICE bike, is to initiate the shift as smoothly as possible as it's easier on the tranny and also avoids upsetting the chassis as you're charging into corners.  It's just good practice on top of that.  I think you're on the right track and I think you'll find that she rewards you well when you figure out all the little nuansces (I like to think of them as "character")  

Hope that helps... I plan on talking to the guys about the 12V accessory port tomorrow...

[Gavin]

It gets better Brian.

Sadly nothing kept me sane when mine were 3 months old and sleep was an elusive and exotic jewel from some faraway time. (My wife and I worked opposite shifts at the hospital for a year so we didn't have to do day care...but what it really meant was that for a year neither of us got sleep and hardly saw each other...like being two single parents raising the same kid...I would likely do it differently if I could do it over, but we were young and dumb at the time...now we are both older and, well my wife is wiser...)

Some say sanity has eluded me ever since, but those are just my friends and family and people who know me best...so I'm sure they don't know what they're talking about.

Soon comes the crawling, talking, walking...it is a joy every minute that I am now getting to re-live with my granddaughter...

But enough of the sappy stuff...if you're asking the guys about the 12V port, see if the numbers are the same for the Plus please...

Thanks

Gavin

[Shinysideup]

Not to worry, Brian: Those child-rearing challenges all settle down about the time they're 30!

Today, I got my 150 miles on the bike and am liking it more and more. This is one cool machine! 600 is next, and then I get to try Sport mode. (OK, I did try it briefly, and it was very nice, but I didn't wring its neck.)

Today I ran the battery down to 15% for the first time, and, when accelerating up a long hill, I noticed some brief, partial cut outs. No cut outs, really, but more like a brief, subtle rapid stutter, with no degree of power loss that was concerning me, just noticeable. Probably some low voltage sensor getting tweaked at the current I was demanding. If this is something that shouldn't have happened, please let me know. Otherwise I can easily live with it.

Another question: There's nothing about suspension in the interim manual. I'm not interested in riding hard in the twisties, except occasionally. 99% of the time, I'm commuting and working all day long from the bike in San Francisco, well renown for pavement that's slightly smoother than the topography of a pizza with everything on it.

So what I would like to know is how to adjust the suspension so it is the softest possible, reacting as quickly as possible to sharp changes. On the rear shock and the front forks there are screws with + and - signs on them. I turned everything as far as possible toward the negative and the ride was a bit smoother, less harsh. Any suggestions on how to turn this magnificent sporting machine into a water bed? A Gold Wing? OK, something softer than it came to me?

Thanks for all the answers, and maybe we should move this to a new topic, like "Newbie Empulse Rider Questions".