B40 fault B8 system fault

[EV promise]

Hello, I've been studying the many photos. Great resource. I have a question to improve my knowledge and help others also in the future. Cottage industry perhaps.
It's a long question but hopefully a short answer.
Looking at the image of an effective module ( 4 rows off 10 cells) Img_4139 showing busbars, with lugs at the back  and  hexagon 'standoffs' at the front on the busbars and also the circuit board image (img_4127) which shows at the front, holes marked  5 to 9 where 'standoffs' from the busbars attach.
Is hole 5 (cell 0) a negative terminal/ busbar, then moving to hole 6 ( cell 1) a positive terminal/busbar and finishing with  hole 9 (marked cell 4) being the positive side of the module?  This being how the board knows the voltages of each row and the whole?
I ask this because there are no + or - signs obvious. Image 3995 of a row of cells in their backplate looks like the cell description is on the positive side of a cell  next to the wide tab. Would all this be correct? Thanks.

[Korbin Dallas]

Yes you are correct. holes 1 & 3 are a larger hex head standoff for support. holes 2 & 3 are not used
holes 5-9 are the smaller hex head and I also assume that is the pickup for the cell voltages. 5 & 8 are on the negative tabs. 6 , 7 & 9 are on the positive tabs

[Korbin Dallas]

more pictures added. Starting reassembly of the #7.

[EV promise]

Fantastic to see the rebuild ongoing and so close to completion. There'll be a lot of space in you garage shortly.
Will you connect the laptop to the  lower  pack to run to check the battery diagnostic results (with new boards the results seem a foregone conclusion but satisfying to know.) or continue the rebuild until the ignition switch can be fitted on?

Are you still thinking of purchasing the connections and interface to attach a laptop to the dash and bike? Watching your progress , I will purchase the Switchcraft terminals, just in case.

[Korbin Dallas]

yes i will connect the laptop to the module as soon as I can get it together. which i hope is later today. had some set backs rebuilding it and having to backup a few steps. i badly want to turn the key on and see it run.

I purchased the other connector and pins but have not done anything further with that.

we are having a late summer here and are trying to take advantage of the beautiful weather every weekend. Winter is coming.

[Korbin Dallas]

Just a note on the lower module for those attempting this..I could not get the #7 circuit board back in once the whole thing way squeezed back together. So for planning sake have the clamping method worked out before hand.

[Korbin Dallas]

Problem #2 of the day. these plastic clips need to be on top of the metal plates of the joining battery. Once clamped together you can not move them. and when you release the clamp they are not close enough to see how far to move the whole battery. It is tedious. Work in progress

[Korbin Dallas]

new photos
got as far as I could for tonight
might get back at it on Thursday
lower module failed!!
discuss

[EV promise]

Hi, great job in getting it all back together. Seeing the green lights flash in the video is wonderful.
 My first thought is, until it's connected back to the bike and has current run through it, the values shown are not correct. For example, modules 5, 6 and 7 show 16.39v approx (previously checked by you in some images) but SOC is reported as 99, 35 & 36%. Also, the temp sensors it shows as ' in error' should just bring a cell heater on. Humidity values look good.
One thing I should add is the pass or fail values are quite arbitrary and are contained in the file 'qualification_paramters.txt' in the Battery Diagnostics Calibrations folder. The temperature sensors are working and giving sensible values and I would hope the bike will adjust to them.

[Korbin Dallas]

Positive results today! I was able to get 99SOC on several boards
I am going to upload new pics, there is video too of the heater problems. could take a bit to get it loaded.
The reset jumper on the circuit board is the key.
So you have to jumper the reset then power up the board for 30 seconds. then turn power off and remove the jumper. then flash the new firmware. that will give you the actual reading of the battery.
I still have a temp diff problem but I am working on that too. more to come!!

[Korbin Dallas]

new link to battery diagnostic part 3 on the first page of this thread.

[Korbin Dallas]

Hi, great job in getting it all back together. Seeing the green lights flash in the video is wonderful.
 My first thought is, until it's connected back to the bike and has current run through it, the values shown are not correct. For example, modules 5, 6 and 7 show 16.39v approx (previously checked by you in some images) but SOC is reported as 99, 35 & 36%. Also, the temp sensors it shows as ' in error' should just bring a cell heater on. Humidity values look good.
One thing I should add is the pass or fail values are quite arbitrary and are contained in the file 'qualification_paramters.txt' in the Battery Diagnostics Calibrations folder. The temperature sensors are working and giving sensible values and I would hope the bike will adjust to them.

Good find on the pass fail values. The SOC was picking up the old power supply values that the boards were installed on originally. It was a 200 ah pack with three batteries in module. I do believe that the temp diff problem will clear up when the bike is back together. But I have to keep testing things while it is apart.  I don

[EV promise]

Hi, I'm pleased you found the reason for the SOC discrepancy. I have a couple of new questions regarding the new images.
In the image of module 4 the 'fuse state' is shown as 'blown'. Where is the fuse and is it blown?
Also, are the new boards set to the modules they replace? Was the image a work in progress?
In the log files the heaters operate at battery module voltage and a maximum of 670mA each ( 2670mA,(40W approx) total for a module as there are 4 heaters) .
What's next, your entry was cut short. Keep up the good work.

[Korbin Dallas]

The soc fix was bogus. After a break I went back at it and first board failed. Try as i might I could not get the soc beyond 35. Then I noticed that all the boards I updated that started out with a SOC less than 40 failed to go to 99. So back to the drawing board on that. The module 4 in the picture was the biggest fail. almost everything about that board bad. So I feel like that one for sure is lost. I havent looked for the fuse to see what one it is yet. The boards are not set in any order but if they pass I change them to 5,6 or 7 because that is where we will need them. For now i want to exhaust all troubleshooting and testing of these boards before i close up the module. It is my only test bed. Also I dialed back the amps on the heater to .400 at higher than that the temp keeps going up slowly.

[EV promise]

Having looked at the 'battery diagnostic' program again my thoughts are this. When you updated the firmware, was just one Victory file update or were the two Texas Instruments (.xml) files also updated. The battery size and purpose was very different for those boards.
Also with one of the new boards connected to the computer, how is it described in the 'messages' column. eg BMP 15/90 90Ah etc.