Continuing: Battery communication service cable

[gyvermc]

Continuing this thread:

https://brammoforum.com/index.php?topic=4051.0

I can confirm, to communicate with your batteries you only need
1) an external 12V supply (I used a battery of my Enertia)
2) DIY Cable adapter (see pictures)
3) USB to COM Port (could be a cheap one with FTDI chip FT232RL USB to RS485 (thanks EV Promise), no Ixxat needed)
4) Software either Valence "Module Diag XP 12.12 Setup.exe" or Victory "64956043_02_Battery_Diagnostics-1.0.11.41.exe" plus "ni-labview-2020-runtime-engine_20.1.0_offline.iso"

[Korbin Dallas]

That is great work. Thank you for posting this info.

[gyvermc]

For those who are interested in my story:
Problems:
In sport mode during acceleration I have the "low battery" message and signal.
Each ride the battery dropps from 9% to 0% and the motor goes offline.
Idea:
One or more batteries are not proberly charged
Solution:
Battery Diagnose test.

First I disconnected the grey phoenix M12 8pin "sensorcable" from the top batteries to the bottom batteries. This had easy access just behind the front wheel and comes with a female connection. I used my DIY male 4 pin (just CAN-H and CAN-L to the USB/RS483, "Interlock" pins are not needed).
Turned the key to ON to use the 12V supply from the Empulse at first try. So I could confirm the USB dongle, software installatione and DIY connection are proberly working.

added 231110 due to posting problems:

diagnose wasnt precise because:
1) the batteries are dischared by Light, VCU, BMS etc
2) the VCU tries to communicate with the batteries as well
3) the bottom batteries are disconnected
So in a second try I used the DIY female 4 pin adapter on the first battery (just disconnect the left gray connector which comes from the vcu) with an external 12V Supply (Enertia battery)
ATTENTION: the pins of the M12 need to be mirrored for DIY female!
IMO the Victory software is much better for just diagnose purpose, the Valence software has much more functions but runs not as good.
With the test a disbalance on battery 4 was detected, which dissapeared after I did a second charge from 95% to 100%.

I don`t recommend to use a DIY female because the pins on the battery were slightly bent. I got B40 as the gray cable was not connected correctely. It was hard work, to get these pins in correct distance. I dont want to think about what would have been if I had damaged one pin...
I recommend to buy a battery connection cable and cut it in half, which i will do next

[Korbin Dallas]

I see you are having trouble posting. I have experienced this when using my phone to reply too

[EV promise]

Hello, I've not been posting as far away from home however I would like to add to this thread. The Brammo or Victory software requires the rs485 to have a FTDI  chip. FT232RL USB to RS485 . On my bike the low battery warning displays at anything less than 20 per cent. gyvermc are you able to charge the batteries? The bike will shutdown to protect the batteries when the charge level is low.
Have you looked at the .drv or .chg files on the memory stick to see if it's one module causing issues. The battery software will flag some errors however the cells are not under load.
Interested to see how this develops. Great work.

[gyvermc]

Thank you for your fast answers!
All posts are done from the same PC. Sometimes it works, sometime it doesn`t.

The "low battery" appears above 20% during acceleration or fast speed for long time.
The batteries always chargel to 100% (from 0% within 3,5h which is OK at 220V)
I couldn`t find the software to open the files on the USB stick.

End of Post :-)

[gyvermc]

During last 2 rides the drop from 7% or 9% to 0% still appears.
Below 30% the maximum power is 12,5kwh.
Below 15% maximum available power ist 9kwh, so just enough for 100km/h.
The charging time shows 3,5h form 0 to 100% but it finishes after 3h allready.
After charching to 100% I realised a drop over (cold) nights of 2-4%.
(today I could complete my story - see my second post)

[gyvermc]

Did several diagnoses now (at different charging states) and the same Error at each Module appers: avg. current reading (A) too low; allowed: 0,2 to -0,2.
Wondering if this is the reason for the mentioned issues, or if something could be wrong with the diagnosing.

[EV promise]

Hello, these are interesting screen shots. I don't believe there is a fault. I've rewritten this post . I was re-reading the earlier parts of this thread and I felt there was a possible error. My understanding hopefully. The bike is "not turned on " for this test. Power to the cell boards is provided externally. The usb to rs485 is connected with 4 wires in 3 places. CAN H, CAN L and 2 wires in the negative. One of these  negatives is for CAN data and the other is the negative from the 12V 100mA power source (or battery with appropriate inline fuse) with the positive wire of the power source going to pin 7 on the bike connector with the other wires.  Please correct my understanding if this is wrong.
- 2.6A is not possible unless the bike is turned on and the cell heaters are running in the low test temperature.
Do you have a copy of a .chg or .drv file to examine? These are the best places to look for issues.

[patrick]

Thank you for your fast answers!
All posts are done from the same PC. Sometimes it works, sometime it doesn`t.

The "low battery" appears above 20% during acceleration or fast speed for long time.
The batteries always chargel to 100% (from 0% within 3,5h which is OK at 220V)
I couldn`t find the software to open the files on the USB stick.

End of Post :-)

Hi all users, this will be my first post, but I've been reading a lot since last year or so.
I bought mine on second handed with 30 000km (18 750 miles) with a B9 fault. then after a few rides the battery went from 90 to 0% and made me think that the batteries were having issues. I started checking one by one and measure their capacity.
some of them are dead, without any capacity to receive or give power, and some are still working. not as fine as I would expected, but currently I 'm buying them from china and replacing the bad ones. here are my results so far, there are still a few batteries to measure their capacity, but look promissing. at least I will be able to rearrange the complete pack of bateries and make them more even.
When I was riding the bike and it sopped, I checked the dash board, and it said that some slots were almost depleated while the others were better. That's why I disassembled all slots and check one by one.

I have already 40 batteries to replace and order 10 more. I built a excel sheet to help me to rearrange the batteries so in the end every slot having the same capacity as all (balancing the complete package  7x4=28 slots)

[m640x]

Thank you for your fast answers!
All posts are done from the same PC. Sometimes it works, sometime it doesn`t.

The "low battery" appears above 20% during acceleration or fast speed for long time.
The batteries always chargel to 100% (from 0% within 3,5h which is OK at 220V)
I couldn`t find the software to open the files on the USB stick.

End of Post :-)

Hi all users, this will be my first post, but I've been reading a lot since last year or so.
I bought mine on second handed with 30 000km (18 750 miles) with a B9 fault. then after a few rides the battery went from 90 to 0% and made think that the batteries were having issues. I started checking one by one and measure their capacity.
some of them are dead, without any capacity to receive or give power, and some are still working. not as fine as I would expected, but currently I 'm buying them from china and replacing the bad ones. here are my results so far, there are still a few batteries to measure their capacity, but look promissing. at least I will be able to rearrange the complete pack of bateries and make them more even.
When I was riding the bike and it sopped, I checked the dash board, and it said that some slots were almost depleated while the others were better. That's why I disassembled all slots and check one by one.

I have already 40 batteries to replace and order 10 more. I built a excel sheet to help me to rearrange the batteries so in the end every slot having the same capacity as all (balancing the complete package  7x4=28 slots)

How do you access the info screen you have in one of your pics?

[Henk1313]

Hello, I've not been posting as far away from home however I would like to add to this thread. The Brammo or Victory software requires the rs485 to have a FTDI  chip. FT232RL USB to RS485 . On my bike the low battery warning displays at anything less than 20 per cent. gyvermc are you able to charge the batteries? The bike will shutdown to protect the batteries when the charge level is low.
Have you looked at the .drv or .chg files on the memory stick to see if it's one module causing issues. The battery software will flag some errors however the cells are not under load.
Interested to see how this develops. Great work.

Hi, I know this is a little off topic, but where were you able to find the software to read the CHG and DRV files from the log usb ?

[Henk1313]

[/quote]

Hi all users, this will be my first post, but I've been reading a lot since last year or so.
I bought mine on second handed with 30 000km (18 750 miles) with a B9 fault. then after a few rides the battery went from 90 to 0% and made me think that the batteries were having issues. I started checking one by one and measure their capacity.
some of them are dead, without any capacity to receive or give power, and some are still working. not as fine as I would expected, but currently I 'm buying them from china and replacing the bad ones. here are my results so far, there are still a few batteries to measure their capacity, but look promissing. at least I will be able to rearrange the complete pack of bateries and make them more even.
When I was riding the bike and it sopped, I checked the dash board, and it said that some slots were almost depleated while the others were better. That's why I disassembled all slots and check one by one.

I have already 40 batteries to replace and order 10 more. I built a excel sheet to help me to rearrange the batteries so in the end every slot having the same capacity as all (balancing the complete package  7x4=28 slots)
[/quote]

I got the exact same problem. on my first ride home I had 100% SOC and as soon as I hit the freeway (100km/h) the bike shut off.
The bike immediatly said 0% SOC. the thing is that i was able to drive home slowly. as soon as I hit the throttle the bike was shutting down again.

I am planning to swap the batteries out for completely different modules (from a volvo XC40) 4s3p * 7 with 196Ah.
so that totals to about 20kwh. the only thing is that the cmu's need to be swapped with the modules. as the bms has a rare canbus signal as far as I researched.

With all the new cells, how much range did you get ?

[patrick]

Hi all users, this will be my first post, but I've been reading a lot since last year or so.
I bought mine on second handed with 30 000km (18 750 miles) with a B9 fault. then after a few rides the battery went from 90 to 0% and made me think that the batteries were having issues. I started checking one by one and measure their capacity.
some of them are dead, without any capacity to receive or give power, and some are still working. not as fine as I would expected, but currently I 'm buying them from china and replacing the bad ones. here are my results so far, there are still a few batteries to measure their capacity, but look promissing. at least I will be able to rearrange the complete pack of bateries and make them more even.
When I was riding the bike and it sopped, I checked the dash board, and it said that some slots were almost depleated while the others were better. That's why I disassembled all slots and check one by one.

I have already 40 batteries to replace and order 10 more. I built a excel sheet to help me to rearrange the batteries so in the end every slot having the same capacity as all (balancing the complete package  7x4=28 slots)
[/quote]

I got the exact same problem. on my first ride home I had 100% SOC and as soon as I hit the freeway (100km/h) the bike shut off.
The bike immediatly said 0% SOC. the thing is that i was able to drive home slowly. as soon as I hit the throttle the bike was shutting down again.

I am planning to swap the batteries out for completely different modules (from a volvo XC40) 4s3p * 7 with 196Ah.
so that totals to about 20kwh. the only thing is that the cmu's need to be swapped with the modules. as the bms has a rare canbus signal as far as I researched.

With all the new cells, how much range did you get ?
[/quote]


Hi...
not sure how much more i did get. but at least my battery number 6 improved a lot. I removed so far 52 batteries that had less than 3800 mA/h and replaced by new ones of 10000mA/h. Also rearrenge all 7 modules to be more equal from each other.
Now I'm stuck at home, since I broke my leg while skiing.....

[patrick]

Hello, I've not been posting as far away from home however I would like to add to this thread. The Brammo or Victory software requires the rs485 to have a FTDI  chip. FT232RL USB to RS485 . On my bike the low battery warning displays at anything less than 20 per cent. gyvermc are you able to charge the batteries? The bike will shutdown to protect the batteries when the charge level is low.
Have you looked at the .drv or .chg files on the memory stick to see if it's one module causing issues. The battery software will flag some errors however the cells are not under load.
Interested to see how this develops. Great work.

Hi, I know this is a little off topic, but where were you able to find the software to read the CHG and DRV files from the log usb ?

there is a converter here in the forum.... not sure where I have found it.... but I have read a lot here

name: bikelogstoexcel.exe