Empulse Rider Questions

[Shinysideup]

What is the draw of the standard headlight?

G

Glad you asked! See my next post...

[Shinysideup]

@Shiny - is that HID conversion kit using the stock lens?  Performing a conversion without changing the entire assembly, including the lens, is not recommended.  I read this article when I was considering lighting options for my R1200RT:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

Yes, I'm familiar with that article and totally agree with it.

But I have a dilemma and it isn't easily solved. The stock bulb in the TrioOM headlight shell and reflector just doesn't throw enough light for MY eyes at freeway speeds for ME to feel safe. So I have to do something.

If I had the wattage available from a BMW tourer, I'd do exactly what I did on my R1200R with great success: add two Hella FF50 driving lamps, sold with installed HID conversions that were very bright AND very tightly focused.

I loved the triangle of light for oncoming cagers to get a clue. I never got flashed by other drivers, once I got them dialed in for point of focus. And I could see every patch of gravel out really far.

But I don't have all those watts available to me. So I have to do something.

Another choice would be to replace the stock 55/60W H4 bulb with, say, a Narva 55/100W bulb, but, again, would the Empulse's converter be happy with the extra draw? Would the shell melt from the heat?

So I'm trying the low wattage (35W) conversion and hoping for the best as an experiment. I finished the install this morning and set the preliminary height tonight. Already I can say, I'm not thrilled with the light scatter. There's a nice central bright spot (way better than stock), with a left and right lesser concentration which is, alas, higher than the central spot. I've lowered the beam so it's no higher than I feel I need to drive at 65 mph and stop within my beam illumination.  BTW, the stock set up had a nice low beam pattern, very close in, but the beam disappeared into the air on high beam... couldn't see squat, except overhead freeway signs.

Then there's also the heat issue with HID, though I've read that halogen throws off more infrared.  The plastic base of the the HID conversion H4 has holes drilled in it and I left the rubber seal off the back to bring more air in. I've put some gaffer's tape around the perimeter to shield for water spray in the rain. We'll see if that works!

As it stands right now, I'm going to drive around and see if I get flashed because of any glare I throw out. Then I'll lower until that stops happening. If the result is too close to the bike to be useful at highway speeds, I'll probably be forced to replace the whole headlight assembly. I'm toying with putting some HID driving lights (Hella, PIAA, etc) inside the current beautiful carbon fiber shell, maybe with a custom made surround. Or maybe a classic round headlight would look OK. Or a purpose-built HID large round driving lamp. Or...

Bottom line: I feel I MUST seek out better light and will do what it takes to achieve it. So stay tuned and any input welcome.

[Richard230]

I can tell you that my 2012 Zero's headlight isn't any better.  I also have a BMW R1200R and I would say that its headlight lights up the road about four times better than the Zero's, especially on high beam.  I have been adjusting the angle of my headlight (which is very easy to do on the Zero), but that can only go so far.  Do you want a brighter light right in front of your tire, or do you want a dim light further out?      Personally, while the headlight assembly on the Zero, which looks very much like the one on the Empulse, looks nice, I think a redesign is in order. 

I am not sure that a brighter bulb is going to make all that much difference.  You probably need both a brighter bulb and a completely different reflector to bring the headlight up to modern motorcycle standards.  Although I will admit that my Zero's headlight works better than the one on my Aprilia RS50, which sort of just glowed at an idle speed, until you moved off and the revs built up enough to power the light so that you could actually see bumps in the road.  But it did act like a visible voltmeter, which I guess had some value.   

[Brammofan]

OK, by overwhelming popular demand (2), I've relented (got offa my ass) and posted pics of my Empusle R mods so far, with some comments:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10852133@N02/sets/72157632546062901/

The images are very large, so if you want to see any detail, just view the original file size.

These are FANTASTIC pics, Shiny.  I encourage everyone to go see them.  Actually, I'm going to embed the slideshow here:

[EmpulseRider]

OK, by overwhelming popular demand (2), I've relented (got offa my ass) and posted pics of my Empusle R mods so far, with some comments:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10852133@N02/sets/72157632546062901/

The images are very large, so if you want to see any detail, just view the original file size.

These are FANTASTIC pics, Shiny.  I encourage everyone to go see them.  Actually, I'm going to embed the slideshow here:{see above}

http://brammoforum.com/index.php?topic=1757.msg13674#msg13674

WOW! Shiny, lets see some howtos...  Nice mods!

[flar]

Perhaps we should start a thread (or 3 or 4) in the Mods subforum for the howtos?

[Shinysideup]

  Personally, while the headlight assembly on the Zero, which looks very much like the one on the Empulse, looks nice, I think a redesign is in order. 

I am not sure that a brighter bulb is going to make all that much difference.  You probably need both a brighter bulb and a completely different reflector to bring the headlight up to modern motorcycle standards. 

AFAIK, both the Zero and Empulse use the same TriOM shell, made in Italy where, if my experience in the tunnels of the Italian Alps is representative, lighting is pretty much optional. The reflector assembly sure LOOKS the hi-tech business. It's not. But stylish it is, and the Italians have that niche nailed.

Tonight I did my first full-on run home from work after dark with the HID bulb. I like the lighting reasonably well and didn't get any cars flashing me, though not much of the travel was on two-lane roads: freeway and 4-lane with a grass strip divider, with a some 2-lane at the end with light traffic. Time will tell regarding oncoming responses.

What I thought would be a problem (the two patches fairly wide left and right that are somewhat higher than the main spot) turns out to have some unforeseen advantages: On curves they dip down and light up the shoulders. Sweet. And, MAYBE, during the day, they are high enough to hit the adjacent car mirrors when I'm lane-splitting, though of course, nothing short of  a jet fighter jack hammer 30mm minigun laser cannon will attract any attention whatsoever from the sleep-driving cagers.

Richard, since you're an engineer and since we both have the same headlights which don't overly thrill us, maybe we could collaborate on how to come up with something superb. Then we could sell it to Brammo and Zero. We'll split the profits right down the middle -- 60/40.

[FreepZ]

I have a question about the seat.

Here's a picture of Joe Keto getting under the wind on an Empulse.



Notice how he's sitting half way up the "ramp" that is the seat on the Empulse. My Ninja 500 R has a rather flat seat.



Scooting back on the seat is very easy on a Ninja. What's it like on the Empulse?

[Richard230]

Shinnysideup, my engineering experience comes from designing residential and commercial subdivisions, utilities, surveying and grading land, along with enforcing development regulations. All I know about headlights is that some work better than others and that H7 headlight bulbs get hot.     My solution to having a poor headlight is to not ride at night.   

[Shinysideup]

Scooting back on the seat is very easy on a Ninja. What's it like on the Empulse?

A bit weird for the first few days. Now I'm used to it. I generally ride "in the valley" and push back usually when going over 60 on the freeway where I want to lean more into the wind. The wind blast keeps me up on the ramp (which is over the charger). Gripping the " tank" with the knees also helps stabilize that position. Although I'm used to it by now, it wouldn't be my ideal seat, but then I actually like the Russell Day Long Saddle for my assets.

[Shinysideup]

One of our Systems Engineers pointed something out to me recently that I probably have not presented well in the past - 5k is a good target rpm for "Sport" mode, but "Normal" mode moves peak power out closer to 7k rpm, so it is actually beneficial (for performance and range) to ride at higher rpm in normal mode.  The slightly reduced torque will also make gear selection more critical. 

So, to make sure I understand this correctly, to maximize range in "Normal" mode (once I'm through the break-in period), I should strive to keep the tach needle in the red zone at 7K (red starts at 6K) and ride with a shift light (or two) constantly illuminated.

Brian, You may have missed this follow up, for I've not seen an answer and would appreciate knowing that I'm understanding you correctly. THANKS! - Bill

[BrammoBrian]

Brian, You may have missed this follow up, for I've not seen an answer and would appreciate knowing that I'm understanding you correctly. THANKS! - Bill

Bill - I did miss this first time around.  Rather than giving a quick response, I'd like to provide you (and the other customers on the forum) with a more detailed answer.  Next week, I'll sit down with the motor designer and get his tips on maximizing performance and efficiency. 

[flar]

Something that I wished I had known before I bought the bike - I signed up for a Chargepoint account while I was getting ready to take delivery and ordered 2 cards, but the bike comes with a Chargepoint keychain card already in the welcome packet.  Actually, I'm not sure that is a problem because the 2 cards I ordered were listed as "free with a new registration" - the only issue is whether I'll be charged for a card if I register all 3 (that's between me and Chargepoint, though).  If I'd known, I would have only bothered ordering one extra or just waited to sign up and register the existing card. I hope that helps future owners.

Something that I still want to know after reading the manual.  On page 30 there is a big warning that you should disconnect the "BATTERY SAFETY DISCONNECT" (see page 47) before working on any of the electrical systems.  The (provisional) manual is only 46 pages long, though - D'oh! 

[Shinysideup]

Yeah, I noticed that too. I figured p. 47 was vaporized when the author forgot to disconnect the BATTERY SAFETY DIS..... POOF!

And dude, you didn't let us know you got your Empulse and now have that famous permanent Empulse Grin (tm)!

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=557347270944605&set=a.193399417339394.51122.173795189299817&type=1&relevant_count=1&ref=nf

[flar]

And dude, you didn't let us know you got your Empulse and now have that famous permanent Empulse Grin (tm)!

They haven't posted the indoor shot that Don took yet.  If it looks anything like the one he took with my phone, I forgot the "Jim doesn't look like he's smiling in photos unless he shows some teeth" rule and so it would look more like my permanent Empulse Deer Caught in the Headlights face (nobody would bother trademarking that)...