Author Topic: Oil Change  (Read 6316 times)

Shinysideup

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #15 on: February 21, 2013, 11:27:38 AM »
Will the hose be damaged by loosening and tightening the hose clamp every 3k miles?

IMHO, nope.

implovator

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #16 on: February 21, 2013, 01:35:49 PM »
Looks like Amsoil might be the only gear oil out there that's 100% compliant. I figure I'll go ahead and order some now in case I want to change it at 100 and 600 miles. How many quarts does it call for? Loads of metal on a drain plug in an unfiltered system make me a little nervous. Guess I'll try not to flick it from one side to the next through any chicanes for a while. :)

flar

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #17 on: February 21, 2013, 02:24:06 PM »
I found the oil fill plug difficult to pour into and so used the breather hose on the left side of the bike after removing its vented plug by releasing the hose clamp. Way EZ.

So, I was thinking to myself.  I said, "Myself, what's he talking about?  That oil fill hole is out in the open, plain as day, with a big red cap on it, what could be easier than that?"  Then I saw Freep's reply and myself answered, "Myself, you do realize that's not the oil fill hole you're looking at, right?"

Oooohhhhhh...
Current bikes: 2013 Brammo Empulse R, 2005 BMW R1200RT
Prior bikes: 1988 Honda Hawk GT, 1997 BMW F650

flar

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #18 on: February 21, 2013, 02:28:11 PM »
How many quarts does it call for?

The manual says "Oil capacity - Oil should be filled to the point where it reaches the Check/Seep hole while the bike is on the side stand. About 1.0L of Synthetic 10W-30 API GL-1 Motorcycle oil, (wet clutch approved)".

It sounds like a quart would not be enough since a liter is larger, but Shiny's tale mentions that he got it to run out the seep hole with just a quart so their "about 1.0L" must be an over-estimate...
Current bikes: 2013 Brammo Empulse R, 2005 BMW R1200RT
Prior bikes: 1988 Honda Hawk GT, 1997 BMW F650

implovator

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #19 on: February 21, 2013, 03:10:10 PM »
It sounds like a quart would not be enough since a liter is larger, but Shiny's tale mentions that he got it to run out the seep hole with just a quart so their "about 1.0L" must be an over-estimate...

Thanks, I missed that earlier. I'm glad I checked on the capacity before buying. I was going to order a case, but 12 quarts would have lasted a LONG time. :)

FreepZ

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #20 on: February 21, 2013, 04:22:09 PM »
I was going to order a case, but 12 quarts would have lasted a LONG time. :)

That just tells me that you're not riding enough! ;)
Richard #935 #595 #44

7racer

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #21 on: February 21, 2013, 09:41:03 PM »
i think videos from Brammo would be great!
I would love to tune the suspension a bit more for my weight.

About the oil change, I just hit 160 and making me think to do a quick drain and change. 
After reading this thread I wonder why Brammo choose such a weird oil?  I guess what is the stock oil then that is used and why can't we get it?

BrammoService

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #22 on: February 22, 2013, 01:50:01 PM »
Hi BrammoForum,

For my first forum entry I will see if I can help answer some questions about changing the oil in your Empulse.

Let's talk about oil. We run AmsOil - Synthetic Motorcycle Oil: SAE 10W-30 (wet clutch approved) in all bikes that come off the line. Most Synthetic 4-Stroke motorcycle oils that are "wet clutch" approved will work in your Empulse. I am working on a specific list of alternate oils that we would recommend. As soon as that is done I will post it here.

Also, if the oil change is done properly (warm gear box just after a ride, and bike on the side stand - not a rear wheel stand) it will hold about 1.1L to 1.15L. I think the Owner's Manual says 1.0L. This has been updated in the official Owner's Manual which is almost done and will be sent to each one of you directly. When you are adding oil, filling via the breather tube is perfectly acceptable. Add the oil to a point where it is visible or comes out of the seep hole on the side of the clutch cover.

On a side note – when you are changing your oil, remember that a lot of the stuff stuck to the drain plug magnet is from the wet clutch.

I hope this helps and let me know if you have any additional questions.

Happy Riding!

Adam
Adam

7racer

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #23 on: February 22, 2013, 07:19:05 PM »
Adam!  thank you so much for the post!

also, will the new manual come with any instructions for suspension adjustment?  If not do you have any recommendations for the amount of sag to set per rider weight?

FreepZ

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #24 on: February 22, 2013, 08:41:57 PM »
I've just finished writing a wiki page about changing the oil.

http://www.brammoforum.com/wiki/index.php?title=Empulse_Oil_Change

I would appreciate it if anybody who has done an oil change could check to make sure that I didn't mess anything up.
Richard #935 #595 #44

Gavin

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #25 on: February 22, 2013, 09:46:54 PM »
Very nice...and thorough....well done.

I wonder, can we add photos to the wiki page? would be nice to show close up of the bits and pieces...

gavin

Richard230

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #26 on: February 23, 2013, 11:02:58 AM »
I think the 43 NM torque value for the oil drain plug may be a little high - depending on the material that the sump is made of and how the plug threads are designed.  BMW's Funduro suffered a number of stripped oil drain bolts (where the part that stripped was the female threads in the sump) when tightened to the recommended 40 NM.  If it was me, until I heard otherwise from Brammo, I think I would tighten the sump plug to 30 NM.  Without the transmission being subject to much in the way of heating and vibration cycles, I don't think there is much chance of the plug loosening.

Does the plug use a crush washer?  I can't recall reading anything in the oil drain instructions about renewing a sealing washer, which is something that you typically do for most oil drain bolt installations. Besides helping to prevent any oil leakage, a new washer might (depending upon its design) provide some tension on the bolt to act a little like a lock-washer.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2013, 11:07:38 AM by Richard230 »
current bikes: 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Classic, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2007 BMW R1200R, 2005 Triumph T-100 Bonneville, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior.

FreepZ

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #27 on: February 23, 2013, 01:29:58 PM »
I agree that 43 Nm is high (the Ninja 500, which also uses a 17 mm drain plug, requires 30 Nm), but that's the value that Shinysideup says he used.

To get the actual correct torque value, I was going to try to use my torque wrench to loosen the plug, although I don't know if that would produce a correct measurement. I'm not going to do that until I have the right oil (which I had to special order, since nobody seems to carry that).

The correct way to get that value is to ask the manufacturer. I was hoping that somebody over there would read this thread (which the have) and then give the correct torque values (which they have not... yet).

I have no idea what torque to use on the oil fill plug. I set my wrench to the lowest setting (13 Nm) and that was still too high.
Richard #935 #595 #44

7racer

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #28 on: February 23, 2013, 04:37:16 PM »
I ended up purchasing this since there is a harbor freight close by.

http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html

still waiting for my oil to arrive but will report back on how it goes.  That fill spot is in a tight spot!

Richard230

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Re: Oil Change
« Reply #29 on: February 23, 2013, 04:38:12 PM »
Using your torque wrench to check for tightening torque when loosening the bolt will not work.  Because of static friction, the loosening torque will be much greater than the correct tightening torque.
current bikes: 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Classic, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2007 BMW R1200R, 2005 Triumph T-100 Bonneville, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior.